Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 2

In Part One, I discussed how dehydrated skin can contribute to adult acne breakouts and blackheads. Blackheads, also known as “open comedones,” are made of a mixture of oil and dead skin-cells.  

Within the area known as the "t-zone” they're not only normal, but blackheads are actually beneficial! The oil of your skin is slightly acidic, which kills a lot of bacteria that hit your skin from the air - more oil in the t-zone means protection for your eyes, nose and mouth from bacterial invasion. The mix of dead skin cells makes this all stay in place, as oil and dead skin cells that are not mixed together also come out to the surface.  

Over time, this mix exchanges itself as cell turnover and constant release of oil get pushed out of your pores every day onto the surface of your skin joining other substances your skin makes to provide your skin’s entire protective barrier known as the “Acid Mantle”.

Thing is, there are microscopic blacks all over your face.  In any acne condition, these tiny things can get larger, and in certain conditions, inflamed.

So, what if this mix has difficulty coming out? What if blackheads keep building up more and more inside the pore? What if the separate oils and dead skin cells also can’t come out?

Three things can happen:

1. Blackheads get bigger and more visible.  

The dark top, giving this impaction the name “blackhead”, is not actually dirt.  It’s the oil and dead skin cell mixture turning dark upon exposure to the air in a chemical process known as “oxidation" - this is why they are dark at the tip and off-white at the bottom.  More accumulation of the mix means bigger, darker blackheads.

2. Excess oil accumulation can get stuck behind stiffened blackheads and skin that has been pulled tight from dehydration, creating "closed comedones.

More and more blackhead material gets stuck behind pore openings that get stiff from dehydration, getting larger at the bottom while the mouth of the pore gets squeezed to a smaller size.  This causes raised bumps as blackheads get closed in on (kind of like “oil balloons” under the skin).  Much of the time they are colorless (skin color), sometimes they show the off-white color of the blackhead material inside coming through the skin.  We call these, “closed comedones”.  I've mostly see them being caused by pore-clogging ingredients, but dehydration is a very common cause as well.

Another type of hard bump, called “milia”, look like off-white pearls just beneath the very top layer of the skin, making them look like they're sticking out of a pore. They actually aren't. Milia from just outside the mouth of a pore.  They're basically your skin's repair job, as they plug up microscopic tears, so whatever is damaging your skin will go over the milia instead.  Most often they're caused by dehydration or too much rubbing and scratching, but they can also be found when a moisturizer is way too think and rich for that person's skin. 

It’s important to know the difference between “closed comedones” and “milia”.

3. Irritation from any source can inflame impactions that block oil and dead skin-cells from being properly released.

If the pore linings of any of these comedones get irritated by anything, from outside or from inside, inflamed acne pimples can form from these bumps.  Most of the time, though, they just stay there until they are squeezed out (please do not do this at home). 

Anything that would bother pores whatsoever, pore-irritating skincare products, friction from your hands by leaning your cheek or chin on your fist or fingers, or even friction from your scarf, can lead to inflammation. The openings and linings of some of your pores will get irritated, swollen, red and painful. With any combination of either of these, there’s your acne breakout! 

These issues are even more problematic for those over the age of 30 as the skin the produces fewer protective substances, and as fine lines and wrinkles cause more chance for obstruction of pore openings, the loss of elasticity can also cause pores to lose their ability to empty themselves properly as they sag with the rest of the skin.

When it comes to taking care of your adult acne, breakouts, and blemishes, a well-established skincare routine with lab-formulated products is essential to restore hydration and balance to your skin. So, what can you do if you have adult acne or are typically oily but find yourself with dryness?

Most importantly: Your cleanser must be non-drying but still rinse well, and the use of an alcohol-free toner is required after each washing to balance acidity level and water in the skin. Non-clogging, hydrating SPF15+ must be used every day no matter the weather or home/office lighting. Specialty products should include: hydrating serums that contain lipids, Beta Glucans, and antioxidants, in addition to nighttime lotions that repair, replenish, and hydrate.

Want to learn more about how dehydration might be playing a role in your acne breakouts?

Please email me or comment below with any questions whatsoever, or fill out my Eval by Email® Online Skincare Consultation form. Remember, this service is available to anywhere in the USA and is designed for adult acne sufferers from Millennials to Boomers, especially those who are also dealing with aging issues. 

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