Kitchen Esthetician or How to Navigate Acne DIY

Working on my Adult Acne Online Coaching program, helping people adjust their home routines to clear their breakout issues, coming across some kind of DIY facial oil, mask or cleansing oil is an almost daily occurrence.  Between Instagram, TikTok, and beauty blogs, the skincare consumer is bombarded with all sorts of advice on how best to deal with acne in general, but particularly on how to save money and health by making your own products right in your own kitchen.  I can’t blame anyone for trying these things.  Who can possibly object to saving money and guarding their health?

There are three problems with the logic here.

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 2

In Part One, I discussed how dehydrated skin can contribute to adult acne breakouts and blackheads. Blackheads, also known as “open comedones,” are made of a mixture of oil and dead skin-cells.  

Within the area known as the "t-zone” they're not only normal, but blackheads are actually beneficial! The oil of your skin is slightly acidic, which kills a lot of bacteria that hit your skin from the air - more oil in the t-zone means protection for your eyes, nose and mouth from bacterial invasion. The mix of dead skin cells makes this all stay in place, as oil and dead skin cells that are not mixed together also come out to the surface.  

Over time, this mix exchanges itself as cell turnover and constant release of oil get pushed out of your pores every day onto the surface of your skin joining other substances your skin makes to provide your skin’s entire protective barrier known as the “Acid Mantle”.

Thing is, there are microscopic blacks all over your face.  In any acne condition, these tiny things can get larger, and in certain conditions, inflamed.

So, what if this mix has difficulty coming out? What if blackheads keep building up more and more inside the pore? What if the separate oils and dead skin cells also can’t come out?

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 1

As an online Esthetician and a virtual skincare coach through my Eval by Email® Adult Acne Clearing Programs, I often don’t get a chance to feel the skin of a client with my own hands. But that doesn’t mean I can’t see what’s going on. Even without the use of a magnifying lamp - you’d be surprised what can be seen in a good web or phone cam photo. 

Since I have over 20 years’ experience giving facials, I know very well what dehydrated skin is like, what it feels like, what it looks like, and what causes it to occur. 

In cases of Adult Acne and Sensitivity, which are my specialized focus, dehydrated skin appears in the vast majority of my clients. If it seems like a contradiction - acne in the presence of dehydration - remember that there is a difference between having “dry” skin that doesn’t produce enough oil and having dehydrated skin where there is plenty of oil but too much water loss. 

How Teenage Acne Turns Into Adult Acne...

One of the major changes in the bodies of teenagers (especially during puberty) is the development and dilation of hair follicles (the pores that hair grows out of) within the skin. 

Testosterone, the male hormone coursing through adolescent veins, triggers new and more abundant hair growth, as well as increases in the skin's natural oil production. Meanwhile, enzymes produced in this process tell pores to get bigger in order to accommodate the new hair and the greater oil flow.  

How to Tell if Your Breakout is from Stress or Diet

"My skin is freaking out! How do I know whether my breakouts are from stress, diet, or 
a combination of both?"

In my experience, when someone says, "My skin is freaking out!" it usually means that they're experiencing breakouts and dryness at the same time. 

Testosterone is the hormone responsible for oil production in the skin. Oil glands are bigger in the T-zone area of the face, while in certain places (like the sides of the chin) the pores are smaller due to natural facial contours.

In the case of stress, an adrenaline rush can produce an overwhelming amount of testosterone, which in turn produces an oil rush to those T-zone pores. If your skincare routine is either pore-clogging or dehydrating, the oil can't come through onto the surface of your skin. This back-up of natural oil is what results in a nasty, irritated breakout. With non-clogging, hydrating skincare products, the skin is more pliable so less oil is held back. If you break out primarily around your mouth, chin, and forehead, stress is likely going to be the primary problem.

So what about diet? 

A Year-Round Routine For Dry Skin

In my previous post about how to identify sensitive skin, I mentioned that only 10% of the entire world's population truly has dry skin. The rest who experience dryness actually have dehydrated skin.

Truly dry skin lacks oil and has less natural ability to keep water within the skin. The skin uses oil to lubricate itself and to keep water from escaping. Because pores expand to accommodate a larger oil flow, the indicator of truly dry skin is very small pores. Dry skin is typically thin, delicate, and can sometimes become slightly congested due to a lack of momentum of oil. In this case, not enough oil is produced to push out of the pores, which can result in some oil becoming stuck and solidifying by mixing with dead skin cells. However, with truly dry skin this is actually not very common.

Soothing Your Scary Skin

Halloween festivities have come to an end, and everyone had a great time, but why is your skin still in scary mode?

In the day or two after Halloween, you might notice that your skin has broken out in little red bumps or has become irritated. If you wore face paint, costume makeup, or even applied lipstick on your face as part of an outfit, there is a huge possibility that the oils and dyes in those products are causing your scary skin.

Face paint and costume makeup are chockful of oils and waxes that can be highly pore-clogging. When the natural oils in your pores aren't able to be freely distributed and are instead held back by other oils or waxes from beauty products, this excess oil will become stuck in your pores. The result of this oil abundance creates inflammation of your pore linings which then leads to swelling, redness, and, sometimes, pain.