All About Blackheads plus Tips for Adult Acne

What is a blackhead exactly?  And why are they black?  Is it dirt?

No.  It’s not dirt.  If you have blackheads, it does not mean you have a dirty face.  And it certainly doesn't mean scrubbing the hell out of your face is going to do one bit of good.

Exactly what is a blackhead?

A blackhead is an impaction made up of various oils and waxes made by your skin, mixed with skin cells that have died and have dislodged from the very top layer of your epidermis.  The same top layer that makes up the surface of your skin lines your pores as well. 

Multi Masking Skincare for Adult Acne

Multi-Task?  Multi-Mask !

I’d like to talk this week about a kind of multi-tasking, from the perspective of dealing with skin that seems like it's in some sort of identity crisis. How do we deal with different parts of our face doing different things, even when our skincare routine is as optimal as can be? 

This may surprise you: only 10% of the world’s population has truly dry skin, ie, doesn’t produce enough oil to keep it lubricated and healthy, while only 10% of the world’s population produces way too much oil.  Everyone else falls into the wide spectrum in between. 

This is why my clinical instructor in beauty school first introduced us to the world of skincare with this adage:

 “There ain't no such thing as Normal Skin”

How to Control Oil During Summer

How do we Control Oil During the Summer? Plus my very first ever book review.

Who doesn't love laying out under a tree, shaded from the beautiful summer sun, reading a good summer book?  Surrounded by flowers, enveloped by warm breezes, listening to kids playing in the park with their dads.  Spending an afternoon like this with a bottle of ice tea? Pure. Bliss.

How Much of Each of My Skincare Products Should I Use?

After filling out the full Eval by Email® form for Adult Acne and Sensitivity issues, a sample packet of an entire skincare regimen is sent to your home to check for likeability, but mainly for any adverse reactions, after which full sizes are purchased from my web store.  

Of course, accompanying this sample packet is a full set of instructions with the order in which the products are to be used, and how to use them.

However, in addition to daily and weekly instructions, I also include a special post card with information on how much is used at a time, and how long each product should last when used in the amounts and frequency they're meant to be.

For your convenience, there are full step-by-step instructions in my web site’s Advice Section for an entire skincare routine for every skin type.

Every time a client comes to get a facial at my skincare salon, Daniela’s Facial Studio, or when a remote client checks in when they need to order more product, I check on their previous product purchases and the date they purchased last, because that's how I can tell if they're been using the products the way they've been instructed to.  Then I check whether they might need to repurchase, or tweak their routine. 

Does a Change in Weather Mean a Change in Skincare ?

This is SO typical me.  Yes, it’s confession time. 

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 2

In Part One, I discussed how dehydrated skin can contribute to adult acne breakouts and blackheads. Blackheads, also known as “open comedones,” are made of a mixture of oil and dead skin-cells.  

Within the area known as the "t-zone” they're not only normal, but blackheads are actually beneficial! The oil of your skin is slightly acidic, which kills a lot of bacteria that hit your skin from the air - more oil in the t-zone means protection for your eyes, nose and mouth from bacterial invasion. The mix of dead skin cells makes this all stay in place, as oil and dead skin cells that are not mixed together also come out to the surface.  

Over time, this mix exchanges itself as cell turnover and constant release of oil get pushed out of your pores every day onto the surface of your skin joining other substances your skin makes to provide your skin’s entire protective barrier known as the “Acid Mantle”.

Thing is, there are microscopic blacks all over your face.  In any acne condition, these tiny things can get larger, and in certain conditions, inflamed.

So, what if this mix has difficulty coming out? What if blackheads keep building up more and more inside the pore? What if the separate oils and dead skin cells also can’t come out?

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 1

As an online Esthetician and a virtual skincare coach through my Eval by Email® Adult Acne Clearing Programs, I often don’t get a chance to feel the skin of a client with my own hands. But that doesn’t mean I can’t see what’s going on. Even without the use of a magnifying lamp - you’d be surprised what can be seen in a good web or phone cam photo. 

Since I have over 20 years’ experience giving facials, I know very well what dehydrated skin is like, what it feels like, what it looks like, and what causes it to occur. 

In cases of Adult Acne and Sensitivity, which are my specialized focus, dehydrated skin appears in the vast majority of my clients. If it seems like a contradiction - acne in the presence of dehydration - remember that there is a difference between having “dry” skin that doesn’t produce enough oil and having dehydrated skin where there is plenty of oil but too much water loss. 

No, Seriously, I Really Am 49 Years Old! My Skincare Regimen and My Thanks

Today is my 49th birthday! :)

I don’t feel any different than I did 10 years ago, so I can’t believe that I’m near 50 (holy…!). However, I am different -- and I have my clients to thank for that. 

I’m not just saying that because everyone is thanking their clients today and tomorrow because of Thanksgiving. I really would be **nowhere** without a clientele that has seen 12.5 years of developments, failures, transitions, and a very tough move to a new location this past summer.

Please permit me to share something with you.

I didn’t have an easy childhood and I’m not secretive about that because it was due to undiagnosed ADD; I am very vocal about that. I believe ADD is the most misunderstood, under- and over-diagnosed cognitive disorder in Psychiatry today, and the more I learn about it, the more I want to shout from the rooftops any way I can help people who also struggle.

How to Tell if Your Breakout is from Stress or Diet

"My skin is freaking out! How do I know whether my breakouts are from stress, diet, or 
a combination of both?"

In my experience, when someone says, "My skin is freaking out!" it usually means that they're experiencing breakouts and dryness at the same time. 

Testosterone is the hormone responsible for oil production in the skin. Oil glands are bigger in the T-zone area of the face, while in certain places (like the sides of the chin) the pores are smaller due to natural facial contours.

In the case of stress, an adrenaline rush can produce an overwhelming amount of testosterone, which in turn produces an oil rush to those T-zone pores. If your skincare routine is either pore-clogging or dehydrating, the oil can't come through onto the surface of your skin. This back-up of natural oil is what results in a nasty, irritated breakout. With non-clogging, hydrating skincare products, the skin is more pliable so less oil is held back. If you break out primarily around your mouth, chin, and forehead, stress is likely going to be the primary problem.

So what about diet? 

Easy Fixes For Hairline Breakouts

Acne can pop up anywhere -- on your face, your back, your chest, and, quite commonly... your hairline. Fortunately, there are some relatively easy fixes for hairline breakouts as they might be occurring due to your environment, or personal habits.

If you break out along the periphery of your face, read this checklist to find out what the problem may be: 

What Are Those Tiny White Bumps?

Those little white bumps you get right below your eyes, on top of your cheekbones, or on other parts of your face? Those pesky bumps are called Milia (pronounced mill-ee-a). Singular - plural, same word (well, technically the singular is "milium", but no one uses it).  They're like tiny pearls underneath the first layer skin that won’t come out no matter how much you squeeze, unless you literally scratch the darn thing off your face. Please don't do that.

Whatever others might have told you, it’s not “calcium deposits” or acne breakouts. It doesn’t require two rounds of Retin-A or massive chemical peels (although there are those with a genetic propensity that do have luck with AHAs and some have even been helped with careful and monitored use of Retin-A). However I've seen way too many people with prescriptions renewed a thousand times before they asked their doctor why it doesn't seem to be working.  

So, what are these milia?

Forget The Ads On TV! Here's How To Really Wash Your Face...

You might think that washing your face is a no-brainer, but you’d actually be surprised!

I’ve seen many clients over the years who I could tell were breaking out and/or had dry skin largely because they didn’t cleanse their faces properly. 

Many people will avoid the periphery of their faces, like the hairline and jawline, because they don’t want to get their hair wet, or because they hate getting water all over themselves with the amount of rinsing necessary. Other times, they skip washing with cleanser altogether in favor of splashing their faces with plain water, especially in the morning.  On the other end of the spectrum are those who use towelettes instead of cleanser, or two-in-one cleanser-scrubs, but rub at their faces so vigorously that they may as well just use sandpaper.

Here are some basic instructions for the best cleansed face you can have. It’ll go a long way to clearing up your skin, making it glow and even making it a little less dry (which is a big part of my method for clearing adult acne).

A Year-Round Routine For Dry Skin

In my previous post about how to identify sensitive skin, I mentioned that only 10% of the entire world's population truly has dry skin. The rest who experience dryness actually have dehydrated skin.

Truly dry skin lacks oil and has less natural ability to keep water within the skin. The skin uses oil to lubricate itself and to keep water from escaping. Because pores expand to accommodate a larger oil flow, the indicator of truly dry skin is very small pores. Dry skin is typically thin, delicate, and can sometimes become slightly congested due to a lack of momentum of oil. In this case, not enough oil is produced to push out of the pores, which can result in some oil becoming stuck and solidifying by mixing with dead skin cells. However, with truly dry skin this is actually not very common.

Skincare Q&A: Pregnancy-Related Acne Issues

As an online esthetician, I'm always answering questions about adult acne, ingrown hair problems, rosacea, or general skin sensitivities. So! I thought that I would feature a skincare Q&A on my blog to address some of these issues.

There are some questions that are sent to me via email or through ChickRx, a now-defunct site where anyone could ask questions that relate to various lifestyle topics and experts (like myself) would offer valuable advice or suggestions. If you have any questions that you would like to ask (or have featured on the blog), please don't hesitate to speak out in the comments below! If you would rather have a question be answered privately, I am always available by email. :)

This week's Skincare Q&A features concerns of pregnancy-related adult acne and beauty issues. 

***

"I recently found out that I'm pregnant. Do I need to worry about what's in my skincare and beauty products? Should I switch to all-natural? What about the products that contain Salicylic Acid or BPO?"

Skincare Q&A: Treating Adult Acne With Drugstore Brands

As an online esthetician, I'm always answering questions about adult acne, ingrown hair problems, rosacea, or general skin sensitivities. So! I thought that I would feature a skincare Q&A on my blog to address some of these issues.

There are some questions that are sent to me via email or through the now-defunct ChickRx, a site where anyone could ask questions that related to various lifestyle topics, and experts (like myself) could offer valuable advice or suggestions. If you have any questions that you would like to ask (or have featured on the blog), please don't hesitate to speak out in the comments below! If you would rather have a question be answered privately, I am always available by email. :)

This week's Skincare Q&A features questions about drugstore brands, why it's so difficult to find products that work for getting your skin clear, and how to pick the best acne treatment suited for your skin type.

How To Give Yourself A Great Facial At Home

The best way to maintain the results of your facials is with regular care at home. With the right products, you can achieve fabulous skin with this weekly regimen. This facial is also great right before a special occasion or an evening out, as it will ensure a more even and longer lasting makeup application.

The wonderful thing about this at-home facial is that most of the steps can be done in the shower or the bath. For extra relaxation, try an aromatherapy bath. Scented massage oils, or better yet, pure essential oils are perfect for a calming soak, especially when mixed with powdered dry milk beforehand to  better disperse the oils in the water. For the shower, simply place a few drops of essential oil with water in a small bowl and place it on your radiator or heating vent.  Try putting on some Celtic or Native American music, or sounds of nature, like ocean waves or thunder storms.

How To Determine If Cleansing Wipes Are Right For You

There always seems to be a new beauty product that caters to the woman-on-the-go who has such a busy life with managing work, socializing, and personal or family time that setting aside a few moments to wash her face at the beginning or end of the day is a terribly daunting task. 

And even if there are a few precious moments, it's just way too easy getting caught up being lazy or tired!

This is where the facial cleansing wipe comes in. I'm often asked about cleansing wipes and how they might be a substitute for washing your face with cleanser from a bottle.

Soothing Your Scary Skin

Halloween festivities have come to an end, and everyone had a great time, but why is your skin still in scary mode?

In the day or two after Halloween, you might notice that your skin has broken out in little red bumps or has become irritated. If you wore face paint, costume makeup, or even applied lipstick on your face as part of an outfit, there is a huge possibility that the oils and dyes in those products are causing your scary skin.

Face paint and costume makeup are chockful of oils and waxes that can be highly pore-clogging. When the natural oils in your pores aren't able to be freely distributed and are instead held back by other oils or waxes from beauty products, this excess oil will become stuck in your pores. The result of this oil abundance creates inflammation of your pore linings which then leads to swelling, redness, and, sometimes, pain.