Scarf Attack! How Your Winter Breakouts Can Be Prevented

Do you have new jawline and neck breakouts that are bad enough to have you running to your doctor?  Don’t go making an appointment just yet… This winter is cold but the weather keeps fluctuating.  Sometimes it's humid with snow, sometimes bitter cold and dry. Nothing else bears the brunt of freezing cold like your skin. But you know what, while everyone is familiar with the drying and chapping effects of frigid winds, very few people take into account how the weather might affect adult acne.  What makes winter different, why would adult acne breakouts be any different than now?

The answer is friction.

Kitchen Esthetician or How to Navigate Acne DIY

Working on my Adult Acne Online Coaching program, helping people adjust their home routines to clear their breakout issues, coming across some kind of DIY facial oil, mask or cleansing oil is an almost daily occurrence.  Between Instagram, TikTok, and beauty blogs, the skincare consumer is bombarded with all sorts of advice on how best to deal with acne in general, but particularly on how to save money and health by making your own products right in your own kitchen.  I can’t blame anyone for trying these things.  Who can possibly object to saving money and guarding their health?

There are three problems with the logic here.

Spring Break: After College?

I used to do a lot of bikini waxing.  I mean, like, 16-24 clients per day, several days a week.  I currently do quite a bit less, now that I’m so much more focused on Adult Acne. 

Back then I was located two blocks from Depaul University, so I had a fair amount of students in my client base, many of whom continued to see me well after graduation.  Some still do.  

The majority of my waxing clientele, however, were actually 20-30-40something college grads, mostly professionals working in the corporate world in one capacity or other.

Oily Skin, Adult Acne & Hydration

"My oily skin has been really tight and dry lately. I'm using a thick moisturizer at night, but I just can't seem to get relief. I also think I'm breaking out more than usual because of the moisturizer, but I don't know what else to do. ...Am I using the wrong products?"

Simply put -- the key to this issue is hydration. Most moisturizers lubricate the skin more than they actually bind water to the skin's surface -- this is ok for skin that doesn't produce enough oil, but it's actually terrible for skin that produces too much. 

Oily skin doesn't need more oil. Oily skin needs water!

Perfect Your Selfie: Banish the Blemish!

There are three things that can really ruin a great makeup application for a special occasion:

1) A sudden breakout
2) Flakiness from dry air
3) Oily shine that pops through your makeup and lights up your face like a disco ball.  

With the holidays and New Year parties approaching, be sure to follow these tips to blow each of these makeup busters to smithereens! Perfect your self(ie) for some great pictures. ;)

Banish the Blemish!

The quickest and easiest way to clear a sudden breakout is actually the best way to soothe inflammation. This method called Ice Therapy, and it's imperative that you start this procedure as soon as you feel or see a new zit.

The video below demonstrates just how easy this process is to reduce inflammation in a breakout!

Approaching Anti-Aging For the Acne-Prone: Part 2

Last week, I talked about the issue of Adult Acne not being addressed enough by the myriad of anti-aging and anti-acne skincare products that are currently available on the market. 

We are seeing a little about it being mentioned here and there, but the ads for just about every product line that's supposed to address adults and not just teens still feature pictures of women in their 20s. But what about those of us 30-, 40- and 50-somethings? I believe women in these age groups are still being ignored.

Win-Win!

The amazing thing is, the very ingredients that address the cell damage that results in premature aging can also address acne issues for adults in their 30s, 40s and 50s!  

Approaching Anti-Aging For The Acne-Prone: Part 1

Why do I specialize so narrowly in Adult Acne, as opposed to just "plain" acne, or even teen acne? What's so unique about adults in their late-20s** to 50s that I feel like they deserve such special attention? After all, acne blemishes form the same way inside a pore no matter a person's age. The only difference between one person and another is what triggers or aggravates the acne, whether it's pore-clogging products, a sudden excess of oil production, genetically "sticky" dead skin cells, or certain skin sensitivities.

** Most of the time acne in one's early-to-mid-20s is simply a continuation of teen acne.

The Problem

In the world of skincare there are products and treatments for acne, and products and treatments for anti-aging concerns. It's a considerable problem that these two concerns are so rarely considered together, despite Adult Acne being a significant issue for many women up until their 50s. In many cases, acne products treat skin as if it's 16-years old, while anti-aging products treat skin as if it's a dried up old prune! 

This very conundrum is the reason adults actually have acne problems that teens don't have. The vast majority of anti-aging products on the market today contain pore-clogging ingredients, both drugstore and department store brands alike. For so many people, the cycle of Adult Acne begins with pore-clogging ingredients in their anti-aging products!

What's The Connection Between Allergies And Acne?

If you have filled out my Eval by Email® Skincare Consultation Form, you may have noticed a section dedicated to listing your allergies -- anything related to food products, environmental allergens, metals, even medication. When it comes to tackling your skincare worries, it's better to be on the detailed side about everything you use topically or ingest. My new clients are often very surprised when I tell them about there possibly being a connection between acne breakouts and  allergies.

One client even submitted a Yelp review mentioning the difference in their skin after assessing their allergies and skincare product usage.

Melissa P. from Wisconsin:

I have been struggling with acne for a long time before I contacted Daniela. The damage was done (scars, red marks, self-confidence) and I figured there was no hope. I randomly found Daniela from a friend's FB post. I contacted Daniela and did her online survey. I noted the allergies I had along with the products I used.

Within 2 days, Daniela had assessed my problems over the internet to a T. Turns out I was allergic to everything in the facial products I had been using!!!! I tried Daniela's products she recommended over the last few months and doing everything she said.   

Here's where the story gets really good.....
My skin is gorgeous!!!! 50% (MAYBE MORE) of the red marks and scars are gone! My confidance has been restored. My friends and family compliment my skin vs. look at me with a pained look. 

Consider the following:

Allergen => Sensitivity => Inflammation => Immune Response

Are "All-Natural" Skincare Products Worth The Hype?

There is a very pervasive perception out there in Skincareland that "natural" is better because any products with chemical ingredients surely must be dangerous or unhealthy.  See a long sounding name on a label and all sorts of red flags go up.

The thinking goes like... If it goes into a car, it can't go on the face. If it has a bunch of long names you can't pronounce, put it back on the shelf. It's usually the ingredients that are derived from petroleum that cause the most trepidation. But petroleum does come from the ground. ...Is that not natural? Silicone also comes from the ground.  As does heroin...

There is a question in the minds of many as to what happens after something has penetrated the skin: Do these ingredients go anywhere else in the body? Do harmful chemicals enter the blood stream? 

Here's a really important fact that should give you pause:

Many medications that are used topically.  What many don't know is that the labs and drug companies that manufacture them have spent millions and millions of dollars figuring out how to get these drugs into the skin! How much more difficult must it be to get these into the blood stream from there??  As a colleague of mine said exasperatedly, "The skincare industry is not out to get everybody!!" 

In my opinion, there is more to worry about with bacterial or fungal laden kitchen ingredients in DIY home remedies than there is about whether or not you can pronounce everything on an ingredient list.

Approaching Anti-Aging Without The Quackery!

Many of you know that my specialty is Adult Acne but, most notably, I focus much of my practice on providing anti-aging products suitable for acne-prone skin. Although my expertise is chiefly in acne formation and treatment, I do know something about the aging process as well. 

A while back, on the rare occasion that I was idly watching The Dr. Oz Show, an audience member asked Dr. Oz about sagging skin and what can be done about it.

The Wonder Product That Will Simplify Your Skincare Routine

One of my proudest achievements, my hand-crafted Papaya Pumice Clay-Scrub Kit, gives you the best of multiple salon care products at home. Made with 2 fruit enzymes, 3 types of clay, soothing allantoin, and crushed pumice, this kit is a wonderful multi-purpose addition to your skincare routine.  It comes in powder form, and the kit includes 2 plastic shot glasses, a small scoop for measuring, a small spatula for mixing, and a small brush for application.  Why the silly name?  Honestly, I had no idea what else to call it.  I'm open to suggestions. lol

This Clay-Scrub kit is great for giving yourself a once-a-week facial at home for smooth, clear, decongested skin. For an occasional pick-me-up when your skin is looking dull or feeling a little rough, the powder makes for a perfect scrub (thanks to the action of the crushed pumice) when mixed with your regular cleanser. 

When used as a scrub and mask, first scrubbing very gently to make way for the actions of the enzymes and clay, the various clays then work their magic, and then going even further are the fruit enzymes that loosen and dissolve dead skin cells, which enhances the drawing action of the clay ingredients. Then, the crushed pumice whisks away all the loosened dead cells as you rinse! Nothing else like it out there, I checked!

Beauty Questions Answered by Daniela, Adult Acne Expert

Your skin's health is just as important as the quality of the makeup products you wear on top of it, but it's very easy to neglect, damage, and not spend the necessary time on managing your skin. 

If you're seeking the right answers to your questions about how to achieve that glowing, beautifully clear skin, find a few really good ones right here! 

Here are some questions from readers who have inquired about skincare with questions that are more common than you might think...

Makeup Breakout Prevention Cheat Sheet

There is so much information out there for people who suffer from Adult Acne and general skin sensitivities and while you can have the best skincare product routine to clear up your breakouts, your makeup products can be causing more frustration than necessary! The underlying cause of most of my clients' breakout troubles actually comes from pore clogging ingredients in their makeup rather than from any junk foods in their diet or not washing their faces "enough."

Use this post as a handy reference the next time you go out shopping for makeup! :)

What to look for:

What Are Those Tiny White Bumps?

Those little white bumps you get right below your eyes, on top of your cheekbones, or on other parts of your face? Those pesky bumps are called Milia (pronounced mill-ee-a). Singular - plural, same word (well, technically the singular is "milium", but no one uses it).  They're like tiny pearls underneath the first layer skin that won’t come out no matter how much you squeeze, unless you literally scratch the darn thing off your face. Please don't do that.

Whatever others might have told you, it’s not “calcium deposits” or acne breakouts. It doesn’t require two rounds of Retin-A or massive chemical peels (although there are those with a genetic propensity that do have luck with AHAs and some have even been helped with careful and monitored use of Retin-A). However I've seen way too many people with prescriptions renewed a thousand times before they asked their doctor why it doesn't seem to be working.  

So, what are these milia?

Forget The Ads On TV! Here's How To Really Wash Your Face...

You might think that washing your face is a no-brainer, but you’d actually be surprised!

I’ve seen many clients over the years who I could tell were breaking out and/or had dry skin largely because they didn’t cleanse their faces properly. 

Many people will avoid the periphery of their faces, like the hairline and jawline, because they don’t want to get their hair wet, or because they hate getting water all over themselves with the amount of rinsing necessary. Other times, they skip washing with cleanser altogether in favor of splashing their faces with plain water, especially in the morning.  On the other end of the spectrum are those who use towelettes instead of cleanser, or two-in-one cleanser-scrubs, but rub at their faces so vigorously that they may as well just use sandpaper.

Here are some basic instructions for the best cleansed face you can have. It’ll go a long way to clearing up your skin, making it glow and even making it a little less dry (which is a big part of my method for clearing adult acne).

The Journey To Clear Skin: Facials Or Products?

It's like I always say:

Getting facials without a good skin care routine at home 

is like jogging to Krispy Kreme! 

Especially if you're trying to solve a problem like Adult Acne.

The bottom line is that you need to have top notch products for home use.  Your skin won't get clear without them. It's that simple.

If you’re on a budget, skincare products for home use is where you should really put your money. Facials are great!  But without effective products for a skincare routine at home, you just won’t be able to get the results that you want.  If you need to choose between products and facials, you really should focus on products.

So what does a facial do in the first place? A facial from a licensed esthetician basically does three things: 

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 3

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

You know about what ingredients and claims to look out for when buying SPF sunscreen and you now know how to apply it effectively (and when to reapply!), but what about the rest of your body?

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 2

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

I already touched base on what kinds of ingredients and claims to look out for in your SPF to make sure that you won't break out from your product.

My clients often ask me, "How much sunscreen do you need for the face?" The answer is pretty simple.

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 1

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

First of all, you know that your body skin is not the same as the skin on your face. If you suffer from breakouts or have even slightly oily skin, most sunscreens just feel gross. The creams are either goopy or greasy and even the ones that say "oil-free" often don't feel so great.

One thing you need to know about sunscreen for the face, is that for a long time manufacturers thought consumers wanted to have a moisturizing sunscreen, since the sun has a slightly drying effect on certain skin types. This has caused way too many SPF moisturizers to be formulated as though everyone has super dry skin. Watch out for labels that talk too much about the cream having moisturizing qualities. What skin really needs is water, not lubrication. 

Sometimes the claim of "oil-free" can actually be a red flag.  Many base ingredients that are meant to replace oil are waxy substances that clog pores until they're totally stuffed.  If you like natural or organic brands, check in with a knowledgable Esthetician (like me! :)) to make sure the ingredients are suitable for your skin type.

People email me all the time with ingredient lists, and what surprises them when I respond is that some of the most pore-clogging ingredients are natural!  Raw materials like cocoa butter and coconut oil are known to be very pore-clogging. Shea Butter is another comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredient.

What Ingredients Really Matter In Your Skincare Products?

"I’ve read that it’s better to use 'all natural' products to treat acne because there are no chemicals.  Is it better to use all natural products or is it all hype?"

As an Esthetician who deals exclusively with adult acne and sensitivity, I'm asked this question a lot. You might think the answer is quite simple, but it really isn't. The problem is that acne cannot always be effectively addressed by ingredients that are typical of "all natural" skin care lines. In fact there are some "all natural" ingredients that can be horribly aggravating to acne.