Is Benzoyl Peroxide The Devil ?

In my 23 years of helping to clear Adult Acne, I’ve heard differing opinions about Benzoyl Peroxide, aka BPO. Some say it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread when used properly and under a very specific protocol.  Others believe it damages the skin leaving it thinned out and oxidized, contributing to pigmentation issues and aging.  Some don’t like it just because it’s a “drug”, preferring a more “natural” approach.

 

But learning exactly what BPO does, how it works, and how it can actually help rather than hurt, took more than just hearing an opinion or two.  I’d like to share what I’ve learned with you, and perhaps demystify, and even shed a positive light on Benzoyl Peroxide.

"Can I Use the Same SPF for Face and Body?"

As an online skincare coach, a great many of the Eval by Email® forms I receive on a day to day basis reveal a pretty substantial number of Adult Acne sufferers who use the same moisturizer for day and night, or the same SPF lotion for face and body.  It may seem like this wouldn’t have any part in acne formation, and indeed, the part that moisturizers play in worsening acne is the same for all types of lotions; the presence of pore-clogging ingredients.  But there are other things to consider as well.

So, this week I'd like to tackle the question of Face vs Body SPF, and next week SPF vs Night lotions.

Is there really that much difference between 

Face and Body SPF lotions?

 

Let’s consider a few things.

SPF lotions for body are more likely to be pore clogging

This is true even of “sensitive skin” brands, and brands whose advertising implies that their products are healthy for the skin.  Since most people forget how much the hands and arms can touch the face every day, it’s easy to see why so many skincare formulators would use moderately to highly comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients in body moisturizers, figuring it doesn’t really matter. 

March is Mask Madness Month at The Acne Whisperer !

Yes indeed, folks, it’s Mask Madness time here at The Acne Whisperer! The entire month of March will be devoted to the masks offered at my main web site, what they do, how they work, how to use them and how to choose them.

With so many choices and benefits, I thought I would start out with a simple lesson in the best way to apply a mask.

Winter Skin: Why Sunscreen Is Essential

Think you don't need sunscreen in the winter?

Consider these facts:

• On an overcast day that is bright, rather than dreary, the sun reflected through the clouds can be as damaging as on a perfectly sunny, cloudless day.

• On a clear sunny day with snow on the ground, the sun will reflect off of the snow and damage your skin.

• Experts are finding out that there are different types of light rays coming towards our skin from all types of indoor lighting, which can contribute to skin aging in small ways. Fortunately, broad-spectrum sunscreens can filter these harmful rays - it's always better to be safe than sorry.

• Sun damage is cumulative - most of us already have substantial sun damage from childhood and adolescence. Sun exposure on a clear day can contribute to that damage over time, especially when it's 5 minutes here, 10 minutes there, walking to a store or to our cars. Don't let cold temps, hats, and scarves make you think that you don't need sun protection!

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 2

In Part One, I discussed how dehydrated skin can contribute to adult acne breakouts and blackheads. Blackheads, also known as “open comedones,” are made of a mixture of oil and dead skin-cells.  

Within the area known as the "t-zone” they're not only normal, but blackheads are actually beneficial! The oil of your skin is slightly acidic, which kills a lot of bacteria that hit your skin from the air - more oil in the t-zone means protection for your eyes, nose and mouth from bacterial invasion. The mix of dead skin cells makes this all stay in place, as oil and dead skin cells that are not mixed together also come out to the surface.  

Over time, this mix exchanges itself as cell turnover and constant release of oil get pushed out of your pores every day onto the surface of your skin joining other substances your skin makes to provide your skin’s entire protective barrier known as the “Acid Mantle”.

Thing is, there are microscopic blacks all over your face.  In any acne condition, these tiny things can get larger, and in certain conditions, inflamed.

So, what if this mix has difficulty coming out? What if blackheads keep building up more and more inside the pore? What if the separate oils and dead skin cells also can’t come out?

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 1

As an online Esthetician and a virtual skincare coach through my Eval by Email® Adult Acne Clearing Programs, I often don’t get a chance to feel the skin of a client with my own hands. But that doesn’t mean I can’t see what’s going on. Even without the use of a magnifying lamp - you’d be surprised what can be seen in a good web or phone cam photo. 

Since I have over 20 years’ experience giving facials, I know very well what dehydrated skin is like, what it feels like, what it looks like, and what causes it to occur. 

In cases of Adult Acne and Sensitivity, which are my specialized focus, dehydrated skin appears in the vast majority of my clients. If it seems like a contradiction - acne in the presence of dehydration - remember that there is a difference between having “dry” skin that doesn’t produce enough oil and having dehydrated skin where there is plenty of oil but too much water loss. 

Approaching Anti-Aging For the Acne-Prone: Part 2

Last week, I talked about the issue of Adult Acne not being addressed enough by the myriad of anti-aging and anti-acne skincare products that are currently available on the market. 

We are seeing a little about it being mentioned here and there, but the ads for just about every product line that's supposed to address adults and not just teens still feature pictures of women in their 20s. But what about those of us 30-, 40- and 50-somethings? I believe women in these age groups are still being ignored.

Win-Win!

The amazing thing is, the very ingredients that address the cell damage that results in premature aging can also address acne issues for adults in their 30s, 40s and 50s!  

Approaching Anti-Aging For The Acne-Prone: Part 1

Why do I specialize so narrowly in Adult Acne, as opposed to just "plain" acne, or even teen acne? What's so unique about adults in their late-20s** to 50s that I feel like they deserve such special attention? After all, acne blemishes form the same way inside a pore no matter a person's age. The only difference between one person and another is what triggers or aggravates the acne, whether it's pore-clogging products, a sudden excess of oil production, genetically "sticky" dead skin cells, or certain skin sensitivities.

** Most of the time acne in one's early-to-mid-20s is simply a continuation of teen acne.

The Problem

In the world of skincare there are products and treatments for acne, and products and treatments for anti-aging concerns. It's a considerable problem that these two concerns are so rarely considered together, despite Adult Acne being a significant issue for many women up until their 50s. In many cases, acne products treat skin as if it's 16-years old, while anti-aging products treat skin as if it's a dried up old prune! 

This very conundrum is the reason adults actually have acne problems that teens don't have. The vast majority of anti-aging products on the market today contain pore-clogging ingredients, both drugstore and department store brands alike. For so many people, the cycle of Adult Acne begins with pore-clogging ingredients in their anti-aging products!

8 Facts About Wax

While I'm an Adult Acne and Rosacea Skincare Specialist, I used to perform waxing services at my location in Chicago. Brazilian and bikini waxes were very popular at my facial and waxing studio, but over the years, I have actually realized that many women don't really know much about the waxing and hair growth process, even those who have been getting waxed for years! 

With winter coming to an end and many people looking forward to their sunny Spring Break vacations this month, you might want to take these waxing facts into consideration before your next appointment. And if you're new to waxing, these pointers will help you have a much more manageable appointment. 

Make sure to follow these tips for an easier (and less painful!) waxing experience.

       

        Your waxing cycle (and that other cycle)...

AcneWhispererTV: All About Body Exfoliation

With the winter season slipping away, you might find yourself with dry, rough skin, a case of Keratosis Pilaris, or even body acne! As spring gets closer and you shed the layers of thermal long-johns, socks, and the rest of your winter gear, you'll find yourself needing to shed all the dead skin-cells that have built up all winter long. 

In this AcneWhispererTV video, I explain just how you can properly exfoliate your body to get rid of that build-up and how to prevent KP or ingrown hairs!







Specific products mentioned:

• Spa gloves

• FerroRosa FrictionFix®

All products mentioned in the video can be found in my webstore.

A Remedy For Rough Skin

As with dry skin or with adult acne and dehydration issues, learning how to deal with the rough skin and calluses on your body can really be a pain of trial and error during drier months.

These rough conditions are actually designed to protect your skin from friction, pressure, and rubbing. It makes sense that the roughness would happen at the places that hold you up and help you keep your balance. The joints especially show signs of hard work -- your elbows, knuckles, knees, ankles, heels and the balls of your feet. However, despite the benefit, this roughness and dryness often feels like your skin has gone haywire and doesn't feel very comfortable.

A Year-Round Routine For Dry Skin

In my previous post about how to identify sensitive skin, I mentioned that only 10% of the entire world's population truly has dry skin. The rest who experience dryness actually have dehydrated skin.

Truly dry skin lacks oil and has less natural ability to keep water within the skin. The skin uses oil to lubricate itself and to keep water from escaping. Because pores expand to accommodate a larger oil flow, the indicator of truly dry skin is very small pores. Dry skin is typically thin, delicate, and can sometimes become slightly congested due to a lack of momentum of oil. In this case, not enough oil is produced to push out of the pores, which can result in some oil becoming stuck and solidifying by mixing with dead skin cells. However, with truly dry skin this is actually not very common.

AcneWhisperer TV: How To Apply Eye Cream

Are you starting the New Year with resolutions geared towards self-improvement?

While you're busy at the gym or learning how to cook healthy meals in the kitchen, you should also look towards your bathroom to direct some attention to your skincare routine! Taking care of the skin around your eyes is hugely important -- especially during the dry, cold winter months. 

Have you ever wondered about how to actually apply your eye cream? Believe it or not, it's actually not as obvious as you might think! 




Check out the video below for a how-to about the correct way to apply eye cream.

How To Determine If Cleansing Wipes Are Right For You

There always seems to be a new beauty product that caters to the woman-on-the-go who has such a busy life with managing work, socializing, and personal or family time that setting aside a few moments to wash her face at the beginning or end of the day is a terribly daunting task. 

And even if there are a few precious moments, it's just way too easy getting caught up being lazy or tired!

This is where the facial cleansing wipe comes in. I'm often asked about cleansing wipes and how they might be a substitute for washing your face with cleanser from a bottle.

What To Look For In Anti-Aging Products

An often-asked question amongst my late-20s, 30s, and 40-year old clients is, "What's the deal with anti-aging products, and when should I start using them?"

Well, I'm here to tell you the Big Dirty Secret about anti-aging... 

Of all the anti-aging ingredients, there are only two that are preventative and corrective at the same time: broad-spectrum sunscreen and topical antioxidant serums. 

("Broad-spectrum" means that the sunscreen filters out both UVA and UVB rays -- and must say so on the product label.)

All other anti-aging products are corrective and not preventative, which means that if you don't have any fine lines or wrinkles yet, no corrective product will prevent them. The only thing that will prevent wrinkles, besides a broad-spectrum sunscreen, is something with multiple forms of antioxidants.  Having only one form of antioxidant in a product usually doesn't do the trick because different types of antioxidants interrupt the cascade of skin damage at different points. 

Some of the best antioxidants to look for are: 

Toner, Orlando & Dawn

When you think of essential skincare products, what comes to mind? Cleanser, SPF moisturizer, spot-treatment... ? Actually, one of the most important products for troubled skin is very often missing from skincare regimens!

So, queue up some Tony Orlando and Dawn, and let's get to talking about the importance of toner. :)

I had a colleague in Florida named Dawn. (I say "had" because this sweet, amazing woman sadly passed away last fall after a long battle with cancer. May she rest peacefully and be a continued inspiration to her friends, family, and other skincare colleagues.) Dawn had a set-up in Miami much like mine. (Ok, so it's not Orlando, but what else was I going to call this post, considering it's about toner?) We were having a discussion about the role that increased water consumption plays when it comes to hydrating skin that lacks moisture. 

My correspondence with Dawn got me thinking about toner and how most people are still unclear on what it does and why they should use it.

Firstly, two facts about water consumption: