Sensitive Skin? Maybe Not!

By the yearly sales of moisturizers in this country alone, you would never know that only 10% of the world's entire population actually has genetically dry skin. The rest of us with dryness issues all have **dehydrated** skin.  The problem is, the skincare industry often doesn't seem to understand this concept.  The result?  Genetically oily skin that's leaching water all day long gets lubricated with heavy, often pore-clogging, moisturizers instead of hydrated, and truly dry skin still doesn't get the replenishment of lipids, cholesterol or water that it loses all day long, either.  How does this relate to the possibility that your skin isn't actually sensitive?  If you have Adult Acne, or even just raw, irritated skin, it's actually not a safe assumption that breaking out from products means your skin is sensitive!

Adult Acne Tip - Are You Oily or Sweaty?

At this particular time of writing, it’s the end of August in Chicago.  This month has been hot and muggy.  Of course, you could be reading this during another season altogether.  But, if you’re in a hot climate, you’ll still benefit from the info I’m about to share, so let’s put aside the “summertime” designation for this post.  What I’m talking about is sweat vs oil, and what happens when you have Adult Acne and think you feel greasy when it fact what you’re feeling is perspiration.  Or, both at the same time.  So, what’s the story?

Do I need an eye cream with oily skin?

One of the first things I was taught in Beauty School (where I went in my early 30s in 1997) was that at that time, just in the United States alone, the skincare industry boasted $3.2 Billion in sales annually.  The reason stated?  "It’s incredibly easy to sell moisturizer."  I’m not kidding, that’s really what they said.  Frankly, I think it’s extremely impressive.  Everyone needs moisturizer.  There’s a reason there are so many out there to choose from.  Like I always say, “Everything works for somebody, nothing works for everybody.” 

My job in specializing in Adult Acne is to make sure my clients are getting adequate healing and hydration in their lotions while avoiding pore clogging and irritation.  In addition, my job especially is to make sure they’re getting anti-aging concerns taken care of without clogging pores and causing breakouts unnecessarily.  Prevention is a big part of anti-aging consciousness these days, and it comes up a lot in my practice.

So what about eye cream for prevention?  

Gimmick, or necessity?

Demystifying Large Pores in Adult Acne Skin

As an Adult Acne Specialist, I get asked all the time how to get rid of large pores - slash - make them smaller - slash - make them disappear, etc.

The answer is pretty disappointing (no, they cannot be shrunk), but also kind of fascinating.  

There is, however, a way to prevent them from looking bigger than they already are.

Multi Masking Skincare for Adult Acne

Multi-Task?  Multi-Mask !

I’d like to talk this week about a kind of multi-tasking, from the perspective of dealing with skin that seems like it's in some sort of identity crisis. How do we deal with different parts of our face doing different things, even when our skincare routine is as optimal as can be? 

This may surprise you: only 10% of the world’s population has truly dry skin, ie, doesn’t produce enough oil to keep it lubricated and healthy, while only 10% of the world’s population produces way too much oil.  Everyone else falls into the wide spectrum in between. 

This is why my clinical instructor in beauty school first introduced us to the world of skincare with this adage:

 “There ain't no such thing as Normal Skin”

Adult Acne Tip : You really do need a moisturizer !

There are often times when a new client fills out my Eval by Email® consultation form, and they leave the Nighttime Moisturizer field blank.  It seems many people think they don’t need a moisturizer because their skin is oily, or they’re uncomfortable with the idea because they’ve broken out so much from them in the past.

I’d like to shed some light on moisturizers, why they seem to break you out, why you actually do need one, and how to obtain the right one for you.

A big part of the problem is they way most moisturizers are made.

"Can I Use the Same SPF for Face and Body?"

As an online skincare coach, a great many of the Eval by Email® forms I receive on a day to day basis reveal a pretty substantial number of Adult Acne sufferers who use the same moisturizer for day and night, or the same SPF lotion for face and body.  It may seem like this wouldn’t have any part in acne formation, and indeed, the part that moisturizers play in worsening acne is the same for all types of lotions; the presence of pore-clogging ingredients.  But there are other things to consider as well.

So, this week I'd like to tackle the question of Face vs Body SPF, and next week SPF vs Night lotions.

Is there really that much difference between 

Face and Body SPF lotions?

 

Let’s consider a few things.

SPF lotions for body are more likely to be pore clogging

This is true even of “sensitive skin” brands, and brands whose advertising implies that their products are healthy for the skin.  Since most people forget how much the hands and arms can touch the face every day, it’s easy to see why so many skincare formulators would use moderately to highly comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredients in body moisturizers, figuring it doesn’t really matter. 

Oily Skin, Adult Acne & Hydration

"My oily skin has been really tight and dry lately. I'm using a thick moisturizer at night, but I just can't seem to get relief. I also think I'm breaking out more than usual because of the moisturizer, but I don't know what else to do. ...Am I using the wrong products?"

Simply put -- the key to this issue is hydration. Most moisturizers lubricate the skin more than they actually bind water to the skin's surface -- this is ok for skin that doesn't produce enough oil, but it's actually terrible for skin that produces too much. 

Oily skin doesn't need more oil. Oily skin needs water!

Winter Skin: Why Sunscreen Is Essential

Think you don't need sunscreen in the winter?

Consider these facts:

• On an overcast day that is bright, rather than dreary, the sun reflected through the clouds can be as damaging as on a perfectly sunny, cloudless day.

• On a clear sunny day with snow on the ground, the sun will reflect off of the snow and damage your skin.

• Experts are finding out that there are different types of light rays coming towards our skin from all types of indoor lighting, which can contribute to skin aging in small ways. Fortunately, broad-spectrum sunscreens can filter these harmful rays - it's always better to be safe than sorry.

• Sun damage is cumulative - most of us already have substantial sun damage from childhood and adolescence. Sun exposure on a clear day can contribute to that damage over time, especially when it's 5 minutes here, 10 minutes there, walking to a store or to our cars. Don't let cold temps, hats, and scarves make you think that you don't need sun protection!

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 2

In Part One, I discussed how dehydrated skin can contribute to adult acne breakouts and blackheads. Blackheads, also known as “open comedones,” are made of a mixture of oil and dead skin-cells.  

Within the area known as the "t-zone” they're not only normal, but blackheads are actually beneficial! The oil of your skin is slightly acidic, which kills a lot of bacteria that hit your skin from the air - more oil in the t-zone means protection for your eyes, nose and mouth from bacterial invasion. The mix of dead skin cells makes this all stay in place, as oil and dead skin cells that are not mixed together also come out to the surface.  

Over time, this mix exchanges itself as cell turnover and constant release of oil get pushed out of your pores every day onto the surface of your skin joining other substances your skin makes to provide your skin’s entire protective barrier known as the “Acid Mantle”.

Thing is, there are microscopic blacks all over your face.  In any acne condition, these tiny things can get larger, and in certain conditions, inflamed.

So, what if this mix has difficulty coming out? What if blackheads keep building up more and more inside the pore? What if the separate oils and dead skin cells also can’t come out?

Adult Acne in the Presence of Dehydration: Part 1

As an online Esthetician and a virtual skincare coach through my Eval by Email® Adult Acne Clearing Programs, I often don’t get a chance to feel the skin of a client with my own hands. But that doesn’t mean I can’t see what’s going on. Even without the use of a magnifying lamp - you’d be surprised what can be seen in a good web or phone cam photo. 

Since I have over 20 years’ experience giving facials, I know very well what dehydrated skin is like, what it feels like, what it looks like, and what causes it to occur. 

In cases of Adult Acne and Sensitivity, which are my specialized focus, dehydrated skin appears in the vast majority of my clients. If it seems like a contradiction - acne in the presence of dehydration - remember that there is a difference between having “dry” skin that doesn’t produce enough oil and having dehydrated skin where there is plenty of oil but too much water loss. 

Approaching Anti-Aging For the Acne-Prone: Part 2

Last week, I talked about the issue of Adult Acne not being addressed enough by the myriad of anti-aging and anti-acne skincare products that are currently available on the market. 

We are seeing a little about it being mentioned here and there, but the ads for just about every product line that's supposed to address adults and not just teens still feature pictures of women in their 20s. But what about those of us 30-, 40- and 50-somethings? I believe women in these age groups are still being ignored.

Win-Win!

The amazing thing is, the very ingredients that address the cell damage that results in premature aging can also address acne issues for adults in their 30s, 40s and 50s!  

Approaching Anti-Aging For The Acne-Prone: Part 1

Why do I specialize so narrowly in Adult Acne, as opposed to just "plain" acne, or even teen acne? What's so unique about adults in their late-20s** to 50s that I feel like they deserve such special attention? After all, acne blemishes form the same way inside a pore no matter a person's age. The only difference between one person and another is what triggers or aggravates the acne, whether it's pore-clogging products, a sudden excess of oil production, genetically "sticky" dead skin cells, or certain skin sensitivities.

** Most of the time acne in one's early-to-mid-20s is simply a continuation of teen acne.

The Problem

In the world of skincare there are products and treatments for acne, and products and treatments for anti-aging concerns. It's a considerable problem that these two concerns are so rarely considered together, despite Adult Acne being a significant issue for many women up until their 50s. In many cases, acne products treat skin as if it's 16-years old, while anti-aging products treat skin as if it's a dried up old prune! 

This very conundrum is the reason adults actually have acne problems that teens don't have. The vast majority of anti-aging products on the market today contain pore-clogging ingredients, both drugstore and department store brands alike. For so many people, the cycle of Adult Acne begins with pore-clogging ingredients in their anti-aging products!

Are "All-Natural" Skincare Products Worth The Hype?

There is a very pervasive perception out there in Skincareland that "natural" is better because any products with chemical ingredients surely must be dangerous or unhealthy.  See a long sounding name on a label and all sorts of red flags go up.

The thinking goes like... If it goes into a car, it can't go on the face. If it has a bunch of long names you can't pronounce, put it back on the shelf. It's usually the ingredients that are derived from petroleum that cause the most trepidation. But petroleum does come from the ground. ...Is that not natural? Silicone also comes from the ground.  As does heroin...

There is a question in the minds of many as to what happens after something has penetrated the skin: Do these ingredients go anywhere else in the body? Do harmful chemicals enter the blood stream? 

Here's a really important fact that should give you pause:

Many medications that are used topically.  What many don't know is that the labs and drug companies that manufacture them have spent millions and millions of dollars figuring out how to get these drugs into the skin! How much more difficult must it be to get these into the blood stream from there??  As a colleague of mine said exasperatedly, "The skincare industry is not out to get everybody!!" 

In my opinion, there is more to worry about with bacterial or fungal laden kitchen ingredients in DIY home remedies than there is about whether or not you can pronounce everything on an ingredient list.

Forget The Ads On TV! Here's How To Really Wash Your Face...

You might think that washing your face is a no-brainer, but you’d actually be surprised!

I’ve seen many clients over the years who I could tell were breaking out and/or had dry skin largely because they didn’t cleanse their faces properly. 

Many people will avoid the periphery of their faces, like the hairline and jawline, because they don’t want to get their hair wet, or because they hate getting water all over themselves with the amount of rinsing necessary. Other times, they skip washing with cleanser altogether in favor of splashing their faces with plain water, especially in the morning.  On the other end of the spectrum are those who use towelettes instead of cleanser, or two-in-one cleanser-scrubs, but rub at their faces so vigorously that they may as well just use sandpaper.

Here are some basic instructions for the best cleansed face you can have. It’ll go a long way to clearing up your skin, making it glow and even making it a little less dry (which is a big part of my method for clearing adult acne).

The Journey To Clear Skin: Facials Or Products?

It's like I always say:

Getting facials without a good skin care routine at home 

is like jogging to Krispy Kreme! 

Especially if you're trying to solve a problem like Adult Acne.

The bottom line is that you need to have top notch products for home use.  Your skin won't get clear without them. It's that simple.

If you’re on a budget, skincare products for home use is where you should really put your money. Facials are great!  But without effective products for a skincare routine at home, you just won’t be able to get the results that you want.  If you need to choose between products and facials, you really should focus on products.

So what does a facial do in the first place? A facial from a licensed esthetician basically does three things: 

A Year-Round Routine For Dry Skin

In my previous post about how to identify sensitive skin, I mentioned that only 10% of the entire world's population truly has dry skin. The rest who experience dryness actually have dehydrated skin.

Truly dry skin lacks oil and has less natural ability to keep water within the skin. The skin uses oil to lubricate itself and to keep water from escaping. Because pores expand to accommodate a larger oil flow, the indicator of truly dry skin is very small pores. Dry skin is typically thin, delicate, and can sometimes become slightly congested due to a lack of momentum of oil. In this case, not enough oil is produced to push out of the pores, which can result in some oil becoming stuck and solidifying by mixing with dead skin cells. However, with truly dry skin this is actually not very common.

AcneWhisperer TV: How To Apply Eye Cream

Are you starting the New Year with resolutions geared towards self-improvement?

While you're busy at the gym or learning how to cook healthy meals in the kitchen, you should also look towards your bathroom to direct some attention to your skincare routine! Taking care of the skin around your eyes is hugely important -- especially during the dry, cold winter months. 

Have you ever wondered about how to actually apply your eye cream? Believe it or not, it's actually not as obvious as you might think! 




Check out the video below for a how-to about the correct way to apply eye cream.

Skincare Q&A: Pregnancy-Related Acne Issues

As an online esthetician, I'm always answering questions about adult acne, ingrown hair problems, rosacea, or general skin sensitivities. So! I thought that I would feature a skincare Q&A on my blog to address some of these issues.

There are some questions that are sent to me via email or through ChickRx, a now-defunct site where anyone could ask questions that relate to various lifestyle topics and experts (like myself) would offer valuable advice or suggestions. If you have any questions that you would like to ask (or have featured on the blog), please don't hesitate to speak out in the comments below! If you would rather have a question be answered privately, I am always available by email. :)

This week's Skincare Q&A features concerns of pregnancy-related adult acne and beauty issues. 

***

"I recently found out that I'm pregnant. Do I need to worry about what's in my skincare and beauty products? Should I switch to all-natural? What about the products that contain Salicylic Acid or BPO?"

Skincare Q&A: Treating Adult Acne With Drugstore Brands

As an online esthetician, I'm always answering questions about adult acne, ingrown hair problems, rosacea, or general skin sensitivities. So! I thought that I would feature a skincare Q&A on my blog to address some of these issues.

There are some questions that are sent to me via email or through the now-defunct ChickRx, a site where anyone could ask questions that related to various lifestyle topics, and experts (like myself) could offer valuable advice or suggestions. If you have any questions that you would like to ask (or have featured on the blog), please don't hesitate to speak out in the comments below! If you would rather have a question be answered privately, I am always available by email. :)

This week's Skincare Q&A features questions about drugstore brands, why it's so difficult to find products that work for getting your skin clear, and how to pick the best acne treatment suited for your skin type.