4 Ways To Reduce Keratosis Pilaris

 

"What’s with this bumpiness on my arms,

and why do I break out on my butt all the time?!"

I get asked these questions a lot. 

The bumpiness and breakouts are caused by a condition called Keratosis Pilaris, or as its commonly referred to, "KP".

What exactly is KP?

During the lifetime of normally functioning skin cells, they're born, live for a while at the bottom of the outermost layer of our skin, and just when more new cells now start to push older cells up and out of the way to form the next layer, these cells slowly start to produce and accumulate keratin protein granules.  As more and more protein granules accumulate inside older cells, they take on a slightly bumpy exterior.  

Continuing to move up closer to the surface, these protein-stuffed cells start to flatten and smooth out, and various waxes, fats, and sugars glue all these cells together to form the brick-and-mortar-wall-like top layers that make up the protective, slightly acidic barrier we call the Acid Mantle.  These days, you might hear it referred to as "the skin's natural barrier". 

How To Manage Body Acne

I speak extensively about facial acne on this blog, but in addition to tweaking skincare and make-up habits, people who suffer from Adult Acne also sometimes have to deal with acne on other parts of the body.

These breakouts on the thighs, back or chest, are caused not only by excess oil, but warmth from sitting, salt from sweat, and friction caused by the many layers worn during colder months bothering pore linings.  Friction is especially a factor in cases where exercise is not followed immediately by a shower.  Adding to the mix is one of the biggest issues of all; pore clogging ingredients in dryer sheets being deposited from clothes and bedding onto the skin. 

In order to feel confident baring your skin as the weather warms up, here are a few tips and suggestions on clearing up existing body breakouts and keeping them away for good.

8 Steps To Reducing Redness

In my previous post, "Adult Acne? ...Or Is It Really Rosacea?" I went over the differences between adult acne and rosacea and how to tell exactly what kind of breakouts you're experiencing.  I also mentioned lifestyle changes that could help to manage rosacea flare-ups.

Of course, not everyone with redness issues has rosacea.  Rosacea is a vascular disorder, usually inherited, usually shows up around the age of 30, and is marked by a chronic redness that gets worse with age when left untreated.

Adult Acne? ...Or Is It Really Rosacea?

While I regard myself mostly as a specialist in adult acne, I also specialize in rosacea, as well as in general sensitivity.  And, as someone who actually has rosacea herself, I can understand the frustrations that come along with not knowing how to properly manage the condition.  This can be especially frustrating when you believe you have rosacea and it turns out it's really acne, and vise versa. 

I once had a client who’d been trying all sorts of topical and internal antibiotics and other medications, even birth control (though she was in her late 40s), and nothing was working.  In fact, most of what she was using topically was making things much worse, and what she was taking orally was helping a little or not at all (like the birth control).

Surviving Winter Dryness with Adult Acne

Did you know that only 10% of the world's population has truly dry skin?  As in, genetically does not produce enough oil to maintain its acid mantle, aka natrual barrier.  We call this skin type "Oil-Dry" because it doesn't produce enough of the natural oils skin needs to function properly.  10% of the world's population has skin that produces so much oil, their pores are so large and free-flowing, the skin actually never experiences acne.  The rest of us have combination skin, with oil production occuring along a spectrum.   This is why I believe there are 4 skin types, not three - Dry, Slightly Dry, Slightly Oily, and Oily.  As my instructor at beauty school (may she rest in peace) said, "There ain't no such thing as normal skin."

Oiliness and Dryness at the Same Time??

Winter dryness actually affects everyone’s skin, not just those born with a genetic lack of oil in theirs.  However, for people with acne, or even just skin on the oilier side, dryness can be quite baffling, becuase we're just not used to it.  On top of that, this kind of dryness can have many people breaking out more in the winter than in the summer, even though the opposite may seem to make more sense.  Dryness isn't not just about itchiness, flaking, tightening, or redness.  Personally, my skin always used to look far worse in winter as an adult, with more breakouts, dullness and redness.  My oily adult skin always looked its best in summer. 

Knowing what to do about winter dryness starts with an understanding of how it happens in the first place. 

Breakout Stakeout - Common Causes of Adult Acne

Have you ever had an acne breakout as an adult that you didn't try to explain yourself?  In my experience, people who break out pretty regularly have read and watched enough on social media to have quite a few ideas on what's causing their problem.  Sometimes they're right.  

But many, many adult acne sufferers don't have that kind of experience.  To them, their breakouts are just baffling.  They have no idea what's causing them. Shockingly, at least 60% of my adult acne clientele never had acne as teens!

My job as a specialist in adult acne is to help my clients examine their daily habits, diet, hormonal history, medical history, and products, as well as have a visual picture of their breakouts by being sent photos, to determine and navigate through all possibilities for causes of their breakouts.

I'd like to share some of those possibilities.

The Year Of Maskne: An Adult Acne Expert's View

COVacne!  The Scourge of the Year

Most people call it "maskne", of course, but I call it "COVacne" because it's obvious to me that more is involved than just the physical wearing of masks.  There is no question that friction and heat from mask wearing play the greatest roles, but there has to be meaning in the fact that for so many the acne also gets bad in areas otherwise designated as "hormonal"; the jawline, sides of the chin, inner cheeks, and lower central forehead.  Stress must play a roll, too!

Sensitive Skin? Maybe Not!

By the yearly sales of moisturizers in this country alone, you would never know that only 10% of the world's entire population actually has genetically dry skin. The rest of us with dryness issues all have **dehydrated** skin.  The problem is, the skincare industry often doesn't seem to understand this concept.  The result?  Genetically oily skin that's leaching water all day long gets lubricated with heavy, often pore-clogging, moisturizers instead of hydrated, and truly dry skin still doesn't get the replenishment of lipids, cholesterol or water that it loses all day long, either.  How does this relate to the possibility that your skin isn't actually sensitive?  If you have Adult Acne, or even just raw, irritated skin, it's actually not a safe assumption that breaking out from products means your skin is sensitive!

Pants On Fire! A Solution For Your Ingrown Hair Blues...

As the summer months transition into autumn, chances are that you’re wearing more jeans, yoga pants, leggings, etc. You may also have noticed an upsurge in the severity of your ingrown hairs along your bikini line and even extending down your inner thighs. Since I began performing waxing services over 18 years ago, I have long noticed that the frequency of ingrown hairs along the bikini line seems to increase during changes in weather, particularly from warmer into colder months.



So many questions about this phenomenon have run through my mind...

...Is it me? ...Is it my waxing technique?

If so, why would there be more ingrowns at that time of year? And why would the frequency of my clients' ingrown hairs increase compared to other months? If this really was connected to my waxing technique, why am I noticing more ingrown hairs on the sides of the client's bikini line rather than all over? ...I also had to wonder why the ingrown hairs would also exist in those same outer/side-areas in people who had never even been waxed at all.

Instead of focusing on myself, I began to ask my clients about their ingrown issues.

Adult Acne Tip - Are You Oily or Sweaty?

At this particular time of writing, it’s the end of August in Chicago.  This month has been hot and muggy.  Of course, you could be reading this during another season altogether.  But, if you’re in a hot climate, you’ll still benefit from the info I’m about to share, so let’s put aside the “summertime” designation for this post.  What I’m talking about is sweat vs oil, and what happens when you have Adult Acne and think you feel greasy when it fact what you’re feeling is perspiration.  Or, both at the same time.  So, what’s the story?

Stubborn Acne Around the Chin and Mouth

As an Esthetician specializing in Adult Acne and Sensitivity, acne in pores where oil glands are larger due to being located in the “T-Zone” but where pore sizes are smaller due to facial contours, is the most common problem I see in my clients, both in the salon and in my online adult acne coaching service across the nation.  Excess oil from all kinds of hormonal changes rush into pores causing inflammation of pore linings, resulting in swelling, redness and pain.

These areas of larger glands and smaller pores are located on the sides of the chin, around the mouth, the inner cheeks, and between the brows.  Sometimes, the sides of the chin will also extend to the inner jawline and lower cheeks.  

Working Out with Adult Acne

We’re edging toward the end of winter, and your workout resolution is well under way.  Or, your regular workout routine has been under way for a long time.  Either way, this is often the time I get asked about the best way to keep acne clear with a workout schedule that seems to interfere too often with keeping skin healthy.  How do you avoid over- or under-washing the skin with workouts, and how to keep skin hydrated enough?

Wedding Prep for Adult Acne

The fact that right now is not “wedding season” is precisely the point of this post. 

In the 20+ years that I have been specializing in Adult Acne, I’ve had people contact me just a few weeks before their wedding (a few people, even just 2 weeks ahead), to book a facial to get rid of their breakouts.  

If someone tells me her breakouts are very recent from stress, that’s one thing.  In that instance I tell her a facial will exfoliate, calm and hydrate her skin to prep for better makeup application, but when it comes to clearing her breakout, I tell her it’s actually best to treat it at home with my Ice Therapy technique twice a day.

Enjoy Your Chocolate This Valentine's Day!

I wrote about the connection between various foods and Adult Acne breakouts. Naturally, the time around Valentine's Day brings up questions about the chocolate-breakout connection. Dermatologists have long poo-pooed the idea that there is a connection between the two, and I think it's because the focus was always on the chocolate -- that is, the cocoa.  There's more here than meets the eye!

Think about this: when are you most likely to eat chocolate? Around your period!  And when do you break out the most? You get the idea...

However, and this is a big however, with mounting evidence that there is indeed a connection between dairy and some acne conditions, and between sugar and increased inflammation in the body leading to worsening of existing acne conditions, chocolate is starting to be seen under a new light.

Scarf Attack! How Your Winter Breakouts Can Be Prevented

Do you have new jawline and neck breakouts that are bad enough to have you running to your doctor?  Don’t go making an appointment just yet… This winter is cold but the weather keeps fluctuating.  Sometimes it's humid with snow, sometimes bitter cold and dry. Nothing else bears the brunt of freezing cold like your skin. But you know what, while everyone is familiar with the drying and chapping effects of frigid winds, very few people take into account how the weather might affect adult acne.  What makes winter different, why would adult acne breakouts be any different than now?

The answer is friction.

AcneWhispererTV - Removing Eye Makeup the Right Way

If you think the task of removing eye makeup is a simple no-brainer, my experience with hundreds of adult acne clients over the years shows a different picture.  Why?  It’s just removal of makeup, what’s the big deal?

Removal of a stubborn coating of mascara involves quite a bit of rubbing.  Thing is, depending on the material used with makeup remover, it can also involve microscopic scratching.  This results in two really important problems.

Cornstarch! Adult Acne’s Best Friend!

Mineral Veil, HD Microfinish Powder, Light Reflecting Setting Powder.  I see these a lot among my clients’ makeup arsenals, chiefly because my clientele all have breakout issues.  Summer can really be gross.  There’s very little that’s worse than a greasy mess over layers of makeup.  These powders are not just setting powders, they do serve a great purpose for oily skin; they absorb oil like no one’s business and the white ones don’t clog pores or irritate inflamed skin.

Thing is, considering they run anywhere from $20-50, and considering most are made with just one ingredient, the white ones in particular, do we really need this?  In my opinion, this is really one of the things we can indeed save money on.  Like I said, these powders are great.  But they’re not all there is.

Do I need an eye cream with oily skin?

One of the first things I was taught in Beauty School (where I went in my early 30s in 1997) was that at that time, just in the United States alone, the skincare industry boasted $3.2 Billion in sales annually.  The reason stated?  "It’s incredibly easy to sell moisturizer."  I’m not kidding, that’s really what they said.  Frankly, I think it’s extremely impressive.  Everyone needs moisturizer.  There’s a reason there are so many out there to choose from.  Like I always say, “Everything works for somebody, nothing works for everybody.” 

My job in specializing in Adult Acne is to make sure my clients are getting adequate healing and hydration in their lotions while avoiding pore clogging and irritation.  In addition, my job especially is to make sure they’re getting anti-aging concerns taken care of without clogging pores and causing breakouts unnecessarily.  Prevention is a big part of anti-aging consciousness these days, and it comes up a lot in my practice.

So what about eye cream for prevention?  

Gimmick, or necessity?

Summer Ingrown Hair Remedies

New swimsuit, check.  New sandals, check.  Wide-brimmed hat, check.  Electronic ticket, check.  If only you could check off getting rid of those pesky things on your bikini line, but there they are, staring you right in the face!   Check.  Mate.

Adult Acne Tip: How to Wash Your Face

You would think washing your face is a complete no-brainer, but consider this: on more than one occasion, I’ve been prompted to ask clients with congestion and breakouts on their entire hairline if they tend to avoid those areas when washing.  Often people will avoid the area not wanting to get it wet. This can sometimes be why I see such congestion there.  

Now granted, someone who washes their hair every day will not have this problem no matter how they wash their face.  But not everyone does that.