One of
the first things I was taught in Beauty School (where I went in my early 30s in
1997) was that at that time, just in the United States alone, the skincare
industry boasted $3.2 Billion in sales annually. The reason stated? "It’s incredibly easy to sell
moisturizer." I’m not kidding, that’s
really what they said. Frankly, I think
it’s extremely impressive. Everyone
needs moisturizer. There’s a reason
there are so many out there to choose from.
Like I always say, “Everything works for somebody, nothing works for
everybody.”
My job in specializing in Adult Acne is to make sure my clients are getting
adequate healing and hydration in their lotions while avoiding pore clogging
and irritation. In addition, my job especially is to make sure they’re
getting anti-aging concerns taken care of without clogging pores and causing
breakouts unnecessarily. Prevention is a big
part of anti-aging consciousness these days, and it comes up a lot in my
practice.
So what
about eye cream for prevention?
We’re
told at every cosmetics counter that everyone needs an eye cream in order to
help prevent aging issues. But is this
true? And the even bigger question is,
since oily skin is notorious for showing signs of aging much differently than everyone
else’s because we have an additional layer of protective lipids keeping our skin
nice and plump, does this apply to us as well?
What
causes fine lines, anyway? The truth is,
fine lines and wrinkles look worse when the skin is dry, but dryness doesn’t cause it.
What does?
The skin
is shaped and held up by certain kinds of proteins. These proteins get built up and torn down a
little bit throughout our lives as part of our life cycle. Eventually, the building up doesn’t keep up
with the tearing down. The breakdown of
these proteins results in folds and ditches occurring where the skin used to be
held up nicely by these proteins now deteriorating with age. These folds and ditches are what fine lines
and wrinkles are.
Now, what
causes this destruction is a complex system of hormones and antioxidants your
skin makes, but what provokes the most
damage in this system are oxygen molecules called Free Radicals. A Free Radical is an oxygen molecule that has
lost an electron and roams around looking to steal one to make itself complete. A stolen electron compromises the integrity
of the molecule it’s taken from, causing a breakdown of what that molecule is a
part of, like, say, a protein. You get
free radicals roaming around your body all the time, from breathing, exercising
and just plain living. They’re a natural
part of life. But we get unacceptable, incredibly destructive amounts from sun
exposure, stress, pollution and smoking.
For some reason, free
radicals in the body love to take electrons from your skin’s collagen and
elastin, the very proteins that hold your skin up.
With sun
exposure this destructive process can be so much more pervasive, the skin won’t
just look wrinkled, it’ll look like tanned animal hide more than human
skin. I’m sure you’ve seen the photos of
this kind of thing circulating round the interwebs.
What this
means, of course, is that the best prevention against damage from sun exposure
will be sunscreen! Sunscreen that, of course, also has to be hydrating and
non-clogging, a not-so-common combination.
When it comes to the eyes, UV Protection sunglasses are a must as well
(remember, the fact that a pair of sunglasses are dark isn’t enough - they have
to say UV Protection on the label). Any
time the brightness level outdoors causes you to have to squint in any way, put
on those sunglasses.
Here’s the truth about aging.
Of
ALL the anti-aging ingredients, there are only two that are preventative
as well as corrective - sunscreen and topical antioxidants. Antioxidants help stave off the damage that
free radicals wreak on skin proteins by generously giving free radicals the
electrons they’re looking for. All other
anti-aging ingredients are only corrective,
in other words, they help to rebuild that which has already been broken
down. We want to prevent that breakdown,
and the best way to do that is to put up a defense against those destructive
forces.
Obviously,
though, since I do indeed have plenty of clients with existing fine lines and
wrinkles, there is a need. Even I use an
eye product (a gel to be exact), but I’m already 50 years old. Enter skin rebuilding Peptides! Peptides are short protein chains, and the ones that we use to repair aging issues help to rebuild, restructure, revamp and revitalize. Each one does something different. Drugstore and department store brands do not contain
active ingredients in the same dosages as they were tested at in the lab when
they were discovered. Labeling laws
allow a product to be advertised as having the benefits of the active
ingredient, even when the full product doesn't have the amount necessary to really make a
difference. This is why it’s very
important to be very choosy from whom you get your anti-aging products.
For our purposes, though, they also have to be
truly non-comedogenic, which means not made with any ingredients that will clog
pores. With so many of these clogging ingredients
out there, and so many that can be in low concentrations in a formula without
causing breakouts, the easiest way for the consumer with acne to be sure an eye cream or gel will truly work and
won't break them out is to get them from an Esthetician who is expert in Adult
Acne issues, like moi.
Let’s
determine together what kind of eye product you need at this stage in your
life. If you live in the US and are late
20s or older, we can figure out the best anti-acne and anti-aging regimen for you - you don’t have to choose one over
the other!
Know someone who could benefit from this post ?
Please share !
No comments:
Post a Comment