Why do we need so much in our skincare routine?
Last week
I touched upon the multi-masking idea of treating different areas where your skin is having different parties on multiple parts
of your face.
This week I'd like to address the importance of each category of products I recommend to my clients to help clear their acne.
The truth is, properly clearing and
soothing adult acne and sensitivity is actually more difficult with just a
“three-step” Cleanser-Toner-Moisturizer program.
There really is
no way around an acne remedy, an exfoliator and a mask if you really want to
get clear. You may think Serums are also optional, but with their deeper penetration of hydrating and calming ingredients, they are actually instrumental in getting acne to subside by getting the skin to function as it's supposed to.
My hope is always to get your skin to a point where
you no longer need an acne remedy, where your skincare can be as basic as you need for your skin to continue functioning properly, and then maybe addressing other issues, like anti-aging. So, let's talk about a few ingredient types in order to understand all of this.
Cleanser
Cleansers
can be formulated with OTC meds, like Salicylic Acid or Benzoyl Peroxide, or
antioxidants like Vitamins C and E, to begin treatment as well as to clean, but the absolute most important feature of a cleanser has to be compatibility with your own skin's needs. It must rinse well without drying.
The blue magic on the left is a gentle yet thorough pro-vitamin B5 cleanser and is great for dehydrated combination skin with sensitivity issues accompanied by oil.
Toner
Toners balance hydration and pH levels at the same time. They’re crucial to getting your skin hydrated and doing what it's supposed to.
No matter what other products are used, you will not get nearly the hydration and balancing that any treatment moisturizer offers without a well-formulated water-loving toner. Your dry, dehydrated, and/or breakout-prone oily skin, will thank you.
Serum
If there
is one thing you should purchase as the center of your skincare routine, if you
insist that everything has to be inexpensive but you want to spend good money
on one miracle product, it would have
to be a broad-spectrum, high potency antioxidant serum. For sagging, uneven texture and expression
lines, antioxidants are paired with a class of ingredients called Peptides.
Antioxidants are the key to getting skin to clear itself and keep from breaking out in the first place. With their remarkable healing powers, they act as gatekeepers and damage fixers at the same time, preventing inflammation, and calming irritation that already exists. There are many different antioxidants that work in different ways, so we can attack damage from different angles, and allow skin to heal much more effectively than acne remedies alone.
Whether or not this product will work will depend on the presence of more than one antioxidant playing the field or only one, and whether the antioxidants and peptides are present in adequate amounts. Most often neither is in place, although sometimes the first criterion is. Drugstore, department store and celebrity endorsed brand serums and moisturizers are almost never formulated with the second criterion in mind.
When it comes to antioxidants, there really is nothing like a well-formulated serum. The reason so many out there are able to make such seemingly wild claims about clearing acne and dark marks and smoothing fine lines and waking up dullness, is because all of these issues are addressed so beautifully by topical antioxidants!
Related: Healthy Skin From Head to Toe - a series about Sunscreen!
1. This basic, super duper antioxidant hydrating serum soothes and hydrates, as well as
repairs oxidative (especially sun) damage and helps prevent blackheads by hydrating the skin so it's nice and pliable so oil and dead skin cells don't accumulate in the first place, while the antioxidants prevent congestion from getting so dark and noticeable. Twice a day.
2. This Vitamin C Serum contains the best form of vitamin c for ant-aging, called Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. I have seen it fix a dark mark problem and make the skin look amazingly younger when paired
with an alcohol-free multiple AHA serum like nothing else. It also
enlivens dull complexions. Vitamin C serums also enhance the power of sunscreens, so they're best for morning. However, I have my clients with more substantial dark mark problems use this serum twice a day.
3. This is
my go-to powerhouse for anti-aging; a firming serum used at night. This amazing liquid gold contains powerful peptides
with potent hydrators, skin correcting beta-glucans, and anti-redness mega-antioxidant alpha lipoic acid. I credit this
gem for me looking 40 while not breaking me out in the process (yes, I still do break out).
AHA
Alpha
Hydroxy Acids exfoliate pigmented cells, flush out excess cell build up from
inside and outside pores, and kill bacteria especially when mixed with BHA
(Salicylic Acid). They pack such an
incredible punch, I eventually get all of my clients onto an AHA, or at least a
BHA, product. This BHA mask can be used to exfoliate, hydrate, soothe, and even makes a great spot treatment. I have used it to spot treat inflamed buggers overnight which then go away in a day or two.
This multi-tasking AHA does all of the above without alcohol, which means it's great for
skin with dryness, but also contains skin lighteners and
antioxidants to do the job of an exfoliant, brightener and antioxidant serum in one!
A well-formulated moisturizer can help heal
breakouts, soothe redness, firm sagging, hydrate like crazy, and even prevent new
breakouts after clearing. This vitamin C lotion, for those who don't break out as much, can lighten blackheads and discoloration, calm skin down
and prevent sun damage from leaving you with a mess of fine lines.
For
sagging, dehydration, fine lines and calming, this hydrating firming lotion is the one all of my older clients use.
Mask
Exfoliation, oil control, calming, and hydration are all needed for acne clearing. A huge part of that is weekly use of masks. I’ve had many clients who began with just a basic daily routine, but didn’t really clear significantly until they started using weekly masks. You’ll basically be regularly giving yourself an at-home facial every week!
Clay - the MVP of acne clearing and oil control. The way to tell a clay mask is good for your skin type is that it should not feel too burn-y or sting-y when you put it on, and should have a white or light grey color. Any other color will either mean it's too harsh (like green or dark grey/black) or it contains something artificial. If it's pink that's ok because pink clay is very soothing.
Gel - the best gel masks hydrate, soothe, calm, cool, and help heal with ingredients that thicken the gel so it stays on in a concentrated way, but especially has the kind of delivery system that makes it more intense than serums or moisturizers alone.
And
finally, my own invention, The Papaya-Pumice Clay-Scrub Kit, the exfoliating, calming, moisturizing, oil absorbing,
antioxidant wunderpowder product you mix yourself at home to create the effect
you need depending on what wet ingredient you decide to put in it. Cleansing scrub, clay mask, hydrating
ultra-treatment, all in one!
Your acne problem has a source, and clearing your skin requires finding that source and either eliminating it or healing it. You can start that right now by checking out my Eval by Email® Adult Acne Clearing Program created specially for ages Gen-Y to Baby Boom!
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