No, Seriously, I Really Am 49 Years Old! My Skincare Regimen and My Thanks

Today is my 49th birthday! :)

I don’t feel any different than I did 10 years ago, so I can’t believe that I’m near 50 (holy…!). However, I am different -- and I have my clients to thank for that. 

I’m not just saying that because everyone is thanking their clients today and tomorrow because of Thanksgiving. I really would be **nowhere** without a clientele that has seen 12.5 years of developments, failures, transitions, and a very tough move to a new location this past summer.

Please permit me to share something with you.

I didn’t have an easy childhood and I’m not secretive about that because it was due to undiagnosed ADD; I am very vocal about that. I believe ADD is the most misunderstood, under- and over-diagnosed cognitive disorder in Psychiatry today, and the more I learn about it, the more I want to shout from the rooftops any way I can help people who also struggle.

Approaching Anti-Aging For the Acne-Prone: Part 2

Last week, I talked about the issue of Adult Acne not being addressed enough by the myriad of anti-aging and anti-acne skincare products that are currently available on the market. 

We are seeing a little about it being mentioned here and there, but the ads for just about every product line that's supposed to address adults and not just teens still feature pictures of women in their 20s. But what about those of us 30-, 40- and 50-somethings? I believe women in these age groups are still being ignored.

Win-Win!

The amazing thing is, the very ingredients that address the cell damage that results in premature aging can also address acne issues for adults in their 30s, 40s and 50s!  

Approaching Anti-Aging For The Acne-Prone: Part 1

Why do I specialize so narrowly in Adult Acne, as opposed to just "plain" acne, or even teen acne? What's so unique about adults in their late-20s** to 50s that I feel like they deserve such special attention? After all, acne blemishes form the same way inside a pore no matter a person's age. The only difference between one person and another is what triggers or aggravates the acne, whether it's pore-clogging products, a sudden excess of oil production, genetically "sticky" dead skin cells, or certain skin sensitivities.

** Most of the time acne in one's early-to-mid-20s is simply a continuation of teen acne.

The Problem

In the world of skincare there are products and treatments for acne, and products and treatments for anti-aging concerns. It's a considerable problem that these two concerns are so rarely considered together, despite Adult Acne being a significant issue for many women up until their 50s. In many cases, acne products treat skin as if it's 16-years old, while anti-aging products treat skin as if it's a dried up old prune! 

This very conundrum is the reason adults actually have acne problems that teens don't have. The vast majority of anti-aging products on the market today contain pore-clogging ingredients, both drugstore and department store brands alike. For so many people, the cycle of Adult Acne begins with pore-clogging ingredients in their anti-aging products!

It’s Not The Brush; It’s The Blush!

If you have ever experienced breakouts along your cheekbones that just won’t go away no matter what you do or use, you may have concluded that the pimples must be connected to your blush. After asking around, or perusing Pinterest, there's no doubt that you've come across the advice to wash your makeup brushes. It only seems to make sense that your dirty makeup brushes would cause breakouts, right? 

Actually -- no.  As I always tell my clients, "It's the blush, and not the brush!"

A few facts:

What's The Connection Between Allergies And Acne?

If you have filled out my Eval by Email® Skincare Consultation Form, you may have noticed a section dedicated to listing your allergies -- anything related to food products, environmental allergens, or even medication. When it comes to tackling your skincare worries, it's better to be on the detailed side about everything you use topically or ingest. My new clients are often very surprised when I tell them about there possibly being a connection between acne breakouts and  allergies.

One client even submitted a Yelp review mentioning the difference in their skin after assessing their allergies and skincare product usage.

Melissa P. from Wisconsin:

I have been struggling with acne for a long time before I met Daniela. The damage was done (scars, red marks, self-confidence) and I figured there was no hope. I randomly found Daniela from a friend's FB post. I contacted Daniela and did her online survey. I noted the allergies I had along with the products I used.

Within 2 days, Daniela had assessed my problems over the internet to a T. Turns out I was allergic to everything in the facial products I had been using!!!! I tried Daniela's products she recommended over the last few months and doing everything she said.   

Here's where the story gets really good.....
My skin is gorgeous!!!! 50% (MAYBE MORE) of the red marks and scars are gone! My confidance has been restored. My friends and family compliment my skin vs. look at me with a pained look. 

Consider the following:

Allergen => Sensitivity => Inflammation => Immune Response

Are "All-Natural" Skincare Products Worth The Hype?

There is a very pervasive perception out there in Skincareland that "natural" is better because any products with chemical ingredients surely must be dangerous or unhealthy.  See a long sounding name on a label and all sorts of red flags go up.

The thinking goes like... If it goes into a car, it can't go on the face. If it has a bunch of long names you can't pronounce, put it back on the shelf. It's usually the ingredients that are derived from petroleum that cause the most trepidation. But petroleum does come from the ground. ...Is that not natural? Silicone also comes from the ground.  As does heroin...

There is a question in the minds of many as to what happens after something has penetrated the skin: Do these ingredients go anywhere else in the body? Do harmful chemicals enter the blood stream? 

There are many medications that are used topically, and labs and drug companies that manufacture them spend millions and millions of dollars figuring out how to get these drugs into the skin. How much more difficult must it be to get these into the blood stream from there??  As a colleague of mine said exasperatedly, "The skincare industry is not out to get everybody!!" 

In my opinion, there is more to worry about with bacterial or fungal laden kitchen ingredients in DIY home remedies than there is about whether or not you can pronounce everything on an ingredient list.

Diet & Acne: Is There a Connection?

"Does it really matter what I eat, and are there foods that can cause 

(or even cure) acne?"

I get asked this question ALL the time. The truth is, some foods will aggravate an already existing acne problem, but no foods will actually cause the issue from scratch. 

It's true that some foods are scientifically proven to be acne triggers, but other foods leave an impression of cause and effect when it's really timing that's at play. 

Is it really chocolate that's causing breakouts or is it the onset of a menstrual cycle causing an increase in the eating of chocolate??

Or....! 

Is it that the food contains a component that has been scientifically proven to provoke acne (rather than the entire food itself)??

Approaching Anti-Aging Without The Quackery!

Many of you know that my specialty is Adult Acne but, most notably, I focus much of my practice on providing anti-aging products suitable for acne-prone skin. Although my expertise is chiefly in acne formation and treatment, I do know something about the aging process as well. 

A while back, on the rare occasion that I was idly watching The Dr. Oz Show, an audience member asked Dr. Oz about sagging skin and what can be done about it.

Is There A Connection Between Water Consumption And Clear Skin?

I often hear from clients who've been having trouble with dehydration amidst breakouts, "I know, I know, I don't drink enough water."

(I even hear this from other Estheticians who advise their acne and dry skin clients alike to drink more water to help with dehydration!)

The truth is, skin dehydration actually has very little to do with your water intake - your organs get all of the water first, then your skin gets the little bit left over, but that's usually enough.

Let's put it this way: by the time your skin is dry from not drinking enough water, you're so thirsty, you're dying. 

The Wonder Product That Will Simplify Your Skincare Routine

One of my proudest achievements, my hand-crafted Papaya Pumice Clay-Scrub Kit, gives you the best of multiple salon care products at home. Made with 2 fruit enzymes, 3 types of clay, soothing allantoin, and crushed pumice, this kit is a wonderful multi-purpose addition to your skincare routine.  It comes in powder form, and the kit includes 2 plastic shot glasses, a small scoop for measuring, a small spatula for mixing, and a small brush for application.  Why the silly name?  Honestly, I had no idea what else to call it.  I'm open to suggestions. lol

This Clay-Scrub kit is great for giving yourself a once-a-week facial at home for smooth, clear, decongested skin. For an occasional pick-me-up when your skin is looking dull or feeling a little rough, the powder makes for a perfect scrub (thanks to the action of the crushed pumice) when mixed with your regular cleanser. 

When used as a scrub and mask, first scrubbing very gently to make way for the actions of the enzymes and clay, the various clays then work their magic, then going even further are the fruit enzymes that loosen and dissolve dead skin cells, which enhances the drawing action of the clay ingredients. Then, the crushed pumice whisks away all the loosened dead cells as you rinse! Nothing else like it out there, I checked!

How Teenage Acne Turns Into Adult Acne...

One of the major changes in the bodies of teenagers (especially during puberty) is the development and dilation of hair follicles (pores with accompanying hairs) within the skin. 

Testosterone, the male hormone coursing through adolescent veins, triggers new and more abundant hair growth within teens, as well as increases in the skin's natural oil production. In the meanwhile, enzymes produced in this process tell pores to get bigger in order to accommodate the new hair and the greater oil flow.  

Beauty Questions Answered by Daniela, Adult Acne Expert

Your skin's health is just as important as the quality of the products you wear on top of it, but it's very easy to neglect, damage, and not spend the necessary time on managing your skin. 

If you're seeking out the right answers to your questions about how to achieve that glowing, beautifully clear skin, find a few really good ones right here! 

Here are some questions from readers who have inquired about skincare with questions that are more common than you might think...

Is Your Skin Under Pressure?

From unstable hormonal/environmental issues to poor product choices to a genetic predisposition to overproduction of sludgy oil and too many dead skin cells, there are many reasons for Adult Acne breakouts. It can be pretty difficult to know what can be causing a sudden or an ongoing breakout just by looking at first glance. But don't feel hopeless! 

There's actually one thing you can ask yourself before you try to analyze your own skincare regimen, stress levels, family history, or your diet when you first experience a breakout. 

Ask yourself if there has been anything pressing or rubbing against the area. A breakout can very well happen as a result of friction or pressure.
 

How to Tell if Your Breakout is from Stress or Diet

"My skin is freaking out! How do I know whether my breakouts are from stress, diet, or 
a combination of both?"

In my experience, when someone says, "My skin is freaking out!" it usually means that they're experiencing breakouts and dryness at the same time. 

Testosterone is the hormone responsible for oil production in the skin. Oil glands are bigger in the T-zone area of the face, while in certain places (like the sides of the chin) the pores are smaller due to natural facial contours.

In the case of stress, an adrenaline rush can produce an overwhelming amount of testosterone, which in turn produces an oil rush to those T-zone pores. If your skincare routine is either pore-clogging or dehydrating, the oil can't come through onto the surface of your skin. This back-up of natural oil is what results in a nasty, irritated breakout. With non-clogging, hydrating skincare products, the skin is more pliable so less oil is held back. If you break out primarily around your mouth, chin, and forehead, stress is likely going to be the primary problem.

So what about diet? 

Easy Fixes For Hairline Breakouts

Acne can pop up anywhere -- on your face, your back, your chest, and, quite commonly... your hairline. Fortunately, there are some relatively easy fixes for hairline breakouts as they might be occurring due to your environment or personal habits.

If you break out along the periphery of your face, read this checklist to find out what the problem may be: 

Makeup Breakout Prevention Cheat Sheet

There is so much information out there for people who suffer from Adult Acne and general skin sensitivities and while you can have the best skincare product routine to clear up your breakouts, your makeup products can be causing more frustration than necessary! The underlying cause of most of my clients' breakout troubles actually comes from pore clogging ingredients in their makeup rather than from any junk foods in their diet or not washing their faces "enough."

Use this post as a handy reference the next time you go out shopping for makeup! :)

What to look for:

What Are Those Tiny White Bumps?

Those little white bumps you get right below your eyes, on top of your cheekbones, or even on other parts of your face? Those pesky bumps are called Milia (pronounced mill-ee-a). Singular - plural, same word.  They're like tiny pearls underneath the first layer skin that won’t come out no matter how much you squeeze, unless you literally scratch the darn thing off your face. Please don't do that.

Whatever others might have told you, it’s not “calcium deposits” or acne breakouts. It doesn’t require two rounds of Retin-A or massive chemical peels (although there are those with a genetic propensity that do have luck with AHAs and some have even been helped with careful and monitored use of Retin-A). However I've seen way too many people with prescriptions renewed a thousand times before they've asked their doctor why it doesn't seem to be working.  

So what are these milia?

Forget The Ads On TV! Here's How To Really Wash Your Face...

You might think that washing your face is a no-brainer, but you’d actually be surprised!

I’ve seen many clients over the years who I could tell were breaking out and/or had dry skin largely because they didn’t cleanse their faces properly. 

Many people will avoid the periphery of their faces, like the hairline and jawline, because they don’t want to get their hair wet. Other times, they skip washing altogether in favor of splashing their faces with plain water, especially in the morning.  On the other end of the spectrum are those who use an apricot scrub instead of cleanser, along with the people who use two-in-one cleanser-scrubs, but rub at their faces so vigorously that they may as well just use sandpaper.

Here are some basic instructions for the best cleansed face you can have. It’ll go a long way to clearing up your skin, making it glow and even making it a little less dry (which is a big part of my method for clearing adult acne).

The Journey To Clear Skin: Facials Or Products?

Getting facials without having a good skin care routine at home 

is like jogging to Krispy Kreme! 

Especially if you're trying to solve a problem like Adult Acne.

The bottom line is that you need to have top notch products for home use.  Your skin won't get clear without them. It's that simple.

If you’re on a budget, skincare products for home use is where you should really put your money. Facials are great!  But without effective products for a skincare routine at home, you just won’t be able to get the results that you want.  If you need to choose between products and facials, you really should focus on products.

So what does a facial do in the first place? A facial from a licensed esthetician basically does three things: 

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 3

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

You know about what ingredients and claims to look out for when buying SPF sunscreen and you now know how to apply it effectively (and when to reapply!), but what about the rest of your body?

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 2

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

I already touched base on what kinds of ingredients and claims to look out for in your SPF to make sure that you won't break out from your product.

My clients often ask me, "How much sunscreen do you need for the face?" The answer is pretty simple.

Healthy Skin From Head To Toe: Part 1

Spring is finally here! And it took long enough... The warmer weather means shedding those clunky winter layers and letting your skin breathe! In this Healthy Skin series, I'll be talking about what you'll need in the coming months to protect your skin from head to toe. (This means a lot of sunscreen!)

First of all, you know that your body skin is not the same as the skin on your face. If you suffer from breakouts or have even slightly oily skin, most sunscreens just feel gross. The creams are either goopy or greasy and even the ones that say "oil-free" often don't feel so great.

Here are a few things you need to know about sunscreen for the face is that for a long time manufacturers thought consumers want to have a moisturizing sunscreen, since the sun has a slightly drying effect on certain skin types. This has caused way too many SPF moisturizers to be formulated as though everyone has super dry skin. Watch out for labels that talk too much about the cream having moisturizing qualities. What the skin really needs is water, not lubrication. 

Sometimes the claim of "oil-free" can actually be a red flag.  Many base ingredients that are meant to replace oil are waxy substances that clog pores until they're totally stuffed.  If you like natural or organic brands, check in with a knowledgable Esthetician (like me! :)) to make sure the ingredients are suitable for your skin type.

People email me all the time with ingredient lists, and what surprises them when I respond is that some of the most pore-clogging ingredients are natural!  Raw materials like cocoa butter and coconut oil are known to be very pore-clogging. Shea Butter is another comedogenic (pore-clogging) ingredient.

What Ingredients Really Matter In Your Skincare Products?

"I’ve read that it’s better to use 'all natural' products to treat acne because there are no chemicals.  Is it better to use all natural products or is it all hype?"

As an Esthetician who deals exclusively with acne and sensitivity, I'm asked this question a lot. You might think the answer is quite simple, but it really isn't. The problem is that acne cannot always be effectively addressed by ingredients that are typical of "all natural" skin care lines. In fact there are some "all natural" ingredients that can be horribly aggravating to acne. 

Getting Rid Of Ingrown Hair Irritation

I've covered the topics of body exfoliation, what to know before you get waxed, and how to treat and prevent body acne breakouts, but ingrown hairs can be persistent and frustrating to deal with if you don't know how to properly reduce them! Many of the same products and regimens used for breakouts on other areas of the body also apply in the case of ingrown hairs around the bikini line.  However, the blemishes that occur there are not always the same type for everyone.

Skincare Q&A: Ingrown Hair Madness

As an online esthetician, I spend many hours answering questions about adult acne, ingrown hair problems, rosacea, or general skin sensitivities. So! I thought that I would feature a skincare Q&A on my blog to address some of these issues.

There are some questions that are sent to me via email or through ChickRx, a now-defunct site where anyone could ask questions that related to various lifestyle topics, and experts (like myself) could offer valuable advice or suggestions. If you have any questions that you would like to ask (or have featured on the blog), please don't hesitate to speak out in the comments below! If you would rather have a question be answered privately, I am always available by email.

This week's Skincare Q&A features concerns about how to treat and prevent ingrown hairs and dark spots along the bikini line right in time for the warmer weather.

What Causes Ingrown Hairs?

So you have the new swimsuit and are contemplating wearing it on that up-coming vacation... But, one thing you can't forget or ignore is the bikini line! 

Some people are more prone to ingrown hairs on the bikini line than others. What kind of ingrowns you get definitely makes a difference when it comes to how to get rid of them.

How do you get ingrown hairs?

Ingrown hairs are basically caused by three things: 

8 Facts About Wax

While I'm an Adult Acne and Rosacea Skincare Specialist, I used to perform waxing services at my location in Chicago. Brazilian and bikini waxes were very popular at my facial and waxing studio, but over the years, I have actually realized that many women don't really know much about the waxing and hair growth process, even those who have been getting waxed for years! 

With winter coming to an end and many people looking forward to their sunny Spring Break vacations this month, you might want to take these waxing facts into consideration before your next appointment. And if you're new to waxing, these pointers will help you have a much more manageable appointment. 

Make sure to follow these tips for an easier (and less painful!) waxing experience.

       

        Your waxing cycle (and that other cycle)...

AcneWhispererTV: All About Body Exfoliation

With the winter season slipping away, you might find yourself with dry, rough skin, a case of Keratosis Pilaris, or even body acne! As spring gets closer and you shed the layers of thermal long-johns, socks, and the rest of your winter gear, you'll find yourself needing to shed all the dead skin-cells that have built up all winter long. 

In this AcneWhispererTV video, I'm going to explain just how you can properly exfoliate your body to get rid of that build-up and how to prevent KP or ingrown hairs!







Specific products mentioned:

• Spa gloves

• FerroRosa FrictionFix®

All products mentioned in the video can be found in my webstore.

A Remedy For Rough Skin

As with dry skin or with adult acne and dehydration issues, learning how to deal with the rough skin and calluses on your body can really be a pain of trial and error during drier months.

These rough conditions are actually designed to protect your skin from friction, pressure, and rubbing. It makes sense that the roughness would happen at the places that hold you up and help you keep your balance. The joints especially show signs of hard work -- your elbows, knuckles, knees, ankles, heels and the balls of your feet. However, despite the benefit, this roughness and dryness often feels like your skin has gone haywire and doesn't feel very comfortable.

AcneWhisperer TV: How to Better Apply Mineral Makeup

Ever find that the way that's shown at the store or on TV of how to apply mineral makeup leaves your skin feeling and looking cake-y? 

Let me let you in on a secret:

It's not at all necessary to apply mineral makeup like that! Watch the video below to see how I apply mineral makeup for a totally flawless and completely natural look. :)

A Year-Round Routine For Dry Skin

In my previous post about how to identify sensitive skin, I mentioned that only 10% of the entire world's population truly has dry skin. The rest who experience dryness actually have dehydrated skin.

Truly dry skin lacks oil and has less natural ability to keep water within the skin. The skin uses oil to lubricate itself and to keep water from escaping. Because pores expand to accommodate a larger oil flow, the indicator of truly dry skin is very small pores. Dry skin is typically thin, delicate, and can sometimes become slightly congested due to a lack of momentum of oil. In this case, not enough oil is produced to push out of the pores, which can result in some oil becoming stuck and solidifying by mixing with dead skin cells. However, with truly dry skin this is actually not very common.

AcneWhisperer TV: How To Apply Eye Cream

Are you starting the New Year with resolutions geared towards self-improvement?

While you're busy at the gym or learning how to cook healthy meals in the kitchen, you should also look towards your bathroom to direct some attention to your skincare routine! Taking care of the skin around your eyes is hugely important -- especially during the dry, cold winter months. 

Have you ever wondered about how to actually apply your eye cream? Believe it or not, it's actually not as obvious as you might think! 




Check out the video below for a how-to about the correct way to apply eye cream.